Trapped in Illusion: Bai Dinh Pagoda’s Bitter Truth

Step into the vastness of the Bai Dinh Pagoda Complex, a colossal Buddhist temple complex shrouded in grandeur and intrigue. As you wander through its expansive grounds, you’ll be met by towering structures and intricate designs. But here’s the twist – what appears ancient might just be a recent addition! Surprised? Intrigued? Embark on this journey with us as we unravel the secrets of one of Vietnam’s largest pagodas.

What is the Bai Dinh Pagoda in Ninh Binh?

Bai Dinh Pagoda, located in Ninh Binh, Vietnam, is one of the largest Buddhist temple complexes in the country.

It comprises several structures, including ancient temples and newer, grander buildings. Notable features include a giant Buddha statue, intricate architecture, and serene surroundings nestled amidst the limestone karsts of the region.

The Bai Dinh Pagoda complex is a significant pilgrimage site and a popular tourist destination in Ninh Binh. It is known for its cultural and religious significance as well as its impressive scale and beauty.

The Ancient Bai Dinh Pagoda

The site is home to the Ancient Bai Dinh Pagoda, situated on a hill within the complex. Alongside the Ancient Pagoda, you will also find sacred caves and other old religious sites.

The Ancient Bai Dinh Pagoda, known as Chùa Bái Đính Cổ, was established on the site during the 11th century. This makes it one of the oldest Buddhist temples in Vietnam.

The Ancient Bai Dinh Pagoda still exist and can be visited today. However, it is important to note that this is the only historical place in the complex.

The Modern Bai Dinh Pagoda Complex

In the early 2000s in fact, a major construction project transformed it into one of Vietnam’s largest Buddhist temple complexes. Completed in 2010, the revitalized complex boasts new pagodas and statues, featuring traditional and modern architectural elements.

As a result, everything you see today at Bai Dinh (apart from the Ancient Pagoda) is new. This includes all the pagodas, stupas and statues you’ll see in this article.

Bai Dinh Pagoda Ninh Binh
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The Buddha Sakyamuni Hall
Bai Dinh Pagoda Ninh Binh
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The Three Periods Hall

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How to Get to the Bai Dinh Pagoda

Bai Dinh Pagoda is nestled in the serene countryside near Ninh Binh. This is approximately 20km (12.5 mi) from both Ninh Binh and Tam Coc, or about a 30 minutes ride. Accessing it is convenient, whether by taxi, motorbike, or bicycle.

Upon arrival, you’ll find a massive parking area, perhaps way larger than necessary. Parking rates stand at 40,000 VND for cars and 15,000 VND for motorbikes. This is roughly equivalent to $1.75 USD for cars and $0.65 USD for motorbikes.

Below is the exact location of the ticket counter, located in close proximity of the parking area:

Bai Dinh Pagoda Entrance Fee

Understanding the fees to access Bai Dinh Pagoda isn’t very straightforward. The signs aren’t clear, and they may lead to confusion if you’re not careful.

First, it’s important to note that there is no entrance fee to access Bai Dinh Pagoda. However, the entrance is located on the opposite side of the parking lot, and you’ll be invited to buy an electric car ticket. This, in fact, is the easiest way to get there. A return ticket only costs 60.000 VND ($2.40 USD) per person, but remember you can also walk there.

Then, we had heard you could buy access to the top of the Bao Thien Stupa separately, from which you can enjoy the stunning views over the complex. However, the only other option available at the ticket counter – apart from the expensive guided tours – was the combo ticket (shuttle electric car + stupa entrance) at 220.000 VND ($8.75 USD) per person.

Bai Dinh Pagoda Opening Time

The Bai Dinh Pagoda is open every day from 6:00 AM – 10:00 PM.

Bai Dinh Pagoda Ninh Binh
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Bai Dinh Pagoda Ninh Binh
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View from the top of Bao Thien Stupa

What to See at Bai Dinh Pagoda

The Bai Dinh Pagoda complex spans across more than 500 hectares, offering visitors an extensive array of sights and experiences to explore. Here is the tourist map of the Bai Dinh Pagoda:

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The most important points of interest are:

(3) The Three Gates: This will be your first stop of the journey. The Three Gates is a structure made entirely out of wood, and it features two guardian statues: the Good-Encouraging Guardian and the Evil-Deterring Guardian.

(4) Arhat Statue Corridor: This impressive corridor is adorned with 500 statues of Arhats, representing disciples of Buddha known for their wisdom and enlightenment. Each statue is meticulously crafted, offering a serene and contemplative atmosphere as you walk along the corridor.

(6) Kuan Yin Hall: Built out of 900 cubic metres of wood and dedicated to the Bodhisattva of compassion, this hall is adorned with intricate carvings and adorned with vibrant colors. It hosts the largest bronze statue with gold plating of the Thousand-Arm-Thousand-Eye Avalokiteshvara in Vietnam.

(8) The Buddha Sakyamuni Hall: Step into the sacred space of The Buddha Sakyamuni Hall, where you’ll find a majestic statue of Buddha Sakyamuni. The statue stands at a towering height of 10 meters and weighs an impressive 100 tons. Adorned with intricate details and bathed in soft light, the hall emanates a profound sense of peace and reverence.

(9) The Three Periods Hall: This is one of the highest halls in the Bai Dinh Pagoda complex. With a height of 35 metres and an area of 2500 square metres, the hall was constructed using reinforced concrete and wood-like paint. This hall holds the record for “The largest bronze set of statues in Vietnam”.

(13) Maitreya Buddha Statue: Crafted from a single piece of bronze, the Maitreya Buddha Statue sets a remarkable record as the largest of its kind in Southeast Asia. Standing at an impressive height of 10 meters and weighing 80 tons, this awe-inspiring statue embodies the spirit of compassion and enlightenment.

(14) Bao Thien Stupa: A revered symbol within the Bai Dinh Pagoda complex, the Bao Thien Stupa stands tall at 100 meters with 13 floors, earning the distinction of being the tallest stupa in Asia. Accessible by elevator, the top floor offers breathtaking views of the entire complex, allowing visitors to marvel at its grandeur from above.

(16) Bai Dinh Ancient Pagoda: At the end of over 150 stone steps, the gate of Bai Dinh Ancient Pagoda emerges. Constructed by the Ly Dynasty in 1136, this historic pagoda comprises several significant structures, including the Buddhist Cave, the Mother Goddess Cave, the Cao Son Temple, and the Temple of the Master.

Pearl Well: Located at the foot of the mountain where the Bai Dinh Pagoda is situated, the Pearl Well earned the Bai Dinh Pagoda complex another record! In fact, the Vietnamese Book Record Centre has awarded Bai Dinh Pagoda the certificate of record for “The pagoda with the biggest pearl well in Vietnam”.

Bai Dinh Pagoda Ninh Binh
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Bai Dinh Pagoda Ninh Binh
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Our Experience at the Bai Dinh Pagoda

Our experience at the Bai Dinh Pagoda was quite controversial, and we decided to share it with you in the most honest way. First, you must be aware this is not an old complex by any means. Yes, the ancient Bai Dinh Pagoda is nice, but everything else doesn’t share the same history.

Getting There

As we approached the parking area, we were taken aback by its immense size. It was evident that there’s a deliberate effort to accommodate more visitors over time, with ongoing expansion that seemed to surpass practicality.

At the ticket counter, confusion reigned. We found it difficult to discern what options were available or necessary. Instead, we felt subtly pressured into purchasing a pricier package.

Once we obtained our tickets, we boarded the first electric car available, eagerly beginning our visit to Bai Dinh Pagoda.

Visiting the Bai Dinh Pagoda

To be honest, we were aware it was built only recently and we enjoyed the scenery at first. As soon as we tried to walk within the complex, however, they told us that was not the right direction, and they pointed at another electric car. We tried to insist, but there was no alternative. Electric car it is.

We ended up visiting the Three Gates and the Buddha Sakyamuni Hall, before being brought by yet another electric car to the Wind Chimes Restaurant.

We were quite confused, as we weren’t really looking for food. However, to our surprise, it was time for a hot foot bath! It was quite exhilarating, to be honest, but definitely not something we were expecting at a Pagoda complex.

After some time, with our feet still warm from the soak, we continued exploring the ancient Bai Dinh Pagoda. Later, we made our way to the Bao Thien Stupa, before heading back to the parking lot.

Bai Dinh Pagoda Ninh Binh
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Bai Dinh Pagoda Ninh Binh
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Our Honest Thoughts about the Bai Dinh Pagoda Complex

Many visitors share the sentiment that Bai Dinh Pagoda feels more like a Disneyland complex than a cultural or religious site. After visiting it, we certainly can’t disagree with that.

We must admit we visited the Bai Dinh Pagoda in just a couple of hours, which is not enough. We had to skip a few things, and you probably need 4 or 5 hours if you want to see it all without rushing it.

However, the staff didn’t make things any easier. Visitors are expected to follow a strict order of visiting, with little room for flexibility. For instance, at the beginning of our visit, we were near the Arhat Corridor. But in the end, we weren’t allowed to visit it, being forced to skip it altogether due to lack of time at the end.

Also, the Vietnamese authorities seem obsessed with setting records. Instead of focusing on the religious aspects, many sites in Vietnam, including Bai Dinh Pagoda, prioritize achieving record-breaking feats.

Would We Recommend Visiting It?

No matter how hard we try, we can’t really find a good reason to suggest checking out the Bai Dinh Pagoda complex. Sure, you could try going early in the morning to beat the crowds and wander around the ancient pagoda area. But besides that, the whole experience just feels a bit lacking, you know?

There’s not much history or authenticity to it, which kinda makes the visit feel a bit pointless, to be honest.

The vibe there is kind of off, and it feels a lot like Disneyland. If you’re into the whole modern pagoda scene, then sure, go ahead and visit. But if you’re looking for something more traditional and authentic, there are definitely better things to do in Ninh Binh.

Bai Dinh Pagoda Ninh Binh
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Bai Dinh Pagoda Ninh Binh
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What to See Nearby

Near Bai Dinh Pagoda, you’ll find several attractions worth exploring:

Trang An Landscape Complex: Just a short drive away, Trang An offers stunning landscapes of limestone karsts, caves, and serene waterways, perfect for boat tours and hiking.

Tam Coc: Known as the “Halong Bay on land,” Tam Coc features scenic boat rides through limestone caves and lush rice paddies, offering picturesque views of the countryside.

Hoa Lu Ancient Capital: Explore the ancient capital of Vietnam, Hoa Lu, where you can visit historic temples, learn about Vietnamese history, and enjoy the beautiful surroundings.

Bich Dong Pagoda: This ancient pagoda complex is nestled amidst picturesque surroundings. It offers tranquil settings for meditation and exploration, with stunning cave temples to explore. It’s much smaller than Bai Dinh, but definitely a more authentic alternative.

Thung Nham Bird Garden: Birdwatching enthusiasts will appreciate Thung Nham Bird Garden, home to various bird species, scenic landscapes, and cave exploration opportunities.

Mua Caves: Experience panoramic views of the Ninh Binh countryside from the top of Mua Caves, reached by climbing 500 steps. The viewpoint offers breathtaking vistas of limestone formations and lush greenery.

Bai Dinh Pagoda Ninh Binh
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Bai Dinh Pagoda Ninh Binh
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