Bordering the regions of Tuscany, Marche and Lazio, Umbria is a luscious green paradise in the centre of Italy. The region is full of natural diversity with its hilly and mountainous landscapes, lakes, waterfalls, and natural pools. It’s also known for its well-preserved and historic medieval towns that still hold on to its ancient culture and folkloric traditions. There is much to discover here which is why we’ve prepared an Umbria travel guide to help you navigate the green heart of Italy!
What is Umbria?
Umbria is an Italian region located in the centre of the country. Surrounded by the beautiful Appennine mountains, Umbria is the only region in central and southern Italy with no access to the sea, but this takes nothing away from its beauty!
The region got its name from an ancient tribe who used to populate this area, called the Umbri, ancient pre-Etruscan people. Known for its ancient Roman monuments and artifacts, Umbria is also home to architectural glories from the early middle ages with its stunning historical cathedrals in Assisi and Orvieto, palaces in Todi, Perugia and Gubbio. During the Renaissance, the region was home to the Umbrian school of painting churning out masters such as Perugino and Pinturicchio.
The Tiber River is the most important river in the centre of the peninsula, running about 400 kilometers through a long valley from Tuscany through Umbria and Lazio to the Tyrrhenian Sea. The largest lake in Umbria is Lake Trasimeno, which is fed by small streams, that have an artificial outlet constructed in the 1980s that flows into the Tiber. The region’s landscape is hilly, has river valleys and plains.
Getting around Umbria
The Italian peninsula is made up of thousands of settlements of small towns and hamlets, known as “borghi“, that are usually located in remote areas and in the thick of local greenery, and some still have traces of their fortified walls from centuries ago. The region of Umbria is no exception, as many fortified towns flourished during middle ages.
Go by public transport in Umbria
While its history plays a key role in Umbria’s contemporary charm, it also makes getting around the region not as easy if you’re not driving your own car.
The public transportation in the region is operated by Ferrovie dello Stato, Italy’s national train company. This includes urban and suburban buses, trains, navigation services, and alternative mobility.
While you can technically check every line and timetable on their official website, there is no map there so it’s quite tricky to have a good overview. We recommend using the train line for finding the best route and booking your bus/train. A third-party service like rome2rio or google maps itself is also a good option to find the best public transport for your destination.
Tickets for a suburban bus cost from €1.30 EUR ($1.33 USD) (up to 7km) to €8.60 ($8.80 USD) (until 110km). You can check bus prices here. You can also buy your ticket on the bus by asking the bus driver, for an additional fee which is usually under €1 EUR ($1.02 USD).
If you’re travelling to Umbria from a major city in a nearby region, like Rome or Florence, check out different regional train options and prices with the handy Trenitalia website or app. In Italy, if you buy train tickets (print versions) at the station you will need to validate them before you get on the train by punching it in the little machines on the wall by the trains. Otherwise, you can make your life a bit easier and download the train app and get your tickets online. On the train when the controller comes to check your ticket, just show the online ticket.
To save on money, you can select regional trains tickets that are not direct. Tickets for the regional train start at €7.75 EUR ($7.80 USD). If you get tickets ahead of time, you can get economy tickets and avoid paying more.
Go by car in Umbria
RENT A CAR: There are several car rentals in Umbria, most of which are located in Perugia, Spoleto, Terni, and Assisi. A small car goes for about €28 EUR ($29 USD)/day during low season, while you should expect prices to go up during busier months.
A good website to find the best rental cars is happy-car.it, which compares all the different car rentals.
There is also the option to get a car rental with a driver included, which is called “Noleggio con conducente” or “NCC” in Italian. Below is a map of some car rentals and NCC in Umbria.
DRIVING IN UMBRIA: Getting around Umbria by car is relatively easy. There are no tolls in the entire region, with the exception of the small part of the A1 highway that connects Florence to Rome, and that crosses Umbria near the town of Orvieto.
Therefore, all highways are free and they connect all the region’s major cities. Some of the smaller towns might be more remote, but they’re all relatively easy to reach.
🅿️ PARKING RULES: When you see blue lines, it means you have to pay to park your car there. You can usually park at the little machines on the walkways or near the parking. While some of these machines accept cards, most don’t, so it’s always a good idea to keep some coins at hand.
White lines generally mean that parking is free unless it is specifically indicated by a white rectangular sign under the blue “P” sign. The white sign usually indicates 1 hour and it refers to the use of the parking disk. This is usually only needed during working days and working hours.
Best time to visit Umbria
Umbria is a region that can be visited all year round. The busiest times include weekends of spring, autumn and summer. Yes, you may think that most people would avoid visiting Umbria during its hottest months, as it is a landlocked region, but there are many activities and things to do here in this season.
SPRING AND AUTUMN: Spring (March to May) and Autumn (September to November) are usually the best time to visit Umbria. Temperatures are moderate, days get longer and you’ll find the best conditions to explore Umbria’s small towns.
SUMMER: Summertime (June to August) is a great but busy time to explore the region. Summer is also the time when temperatures are the hottest. In fact, the maximum temperature in Perugia reached 39°C (102.2°F) in August 2021, with several peaks of 37°C (98.6°F) even in July. On the other hand, this type of weather is great for some outdoor activities like canyoning, rafting, hiking, visiting the caves and more.
WINTER: Winter months (December to February) are the coldest and rainiest months. Temperatures go easily below zero, with snow that falls regularly in the region, especially in the more mountainous areas.
Overall, the best months to visit Umbria are April, May, June, and September.
Umbria Travel Guide: Top things to do in Umbria
Umbria is a region that offers so many different activities, most of which you probably had no idea you could do here.
TOWNS & HISTORY: If you’re a fan of Italy’s history and small-town medieval vibes, Umbria is the place to go. Like Tuscany, Umbria features many charming towns that are waiting to be explored. Places like Assisi, Spello, Corciano, Castiglione del Lago, Piediluco, Città della Pieve, Bevagna and many more are a concentrate of Italian history and culture. And don’t miss Rasiglia, the small Venice of Umbria!
FOOD: The food scene in Umbria is great. While most people associate Italy to just pasta and pizza, each area has actually its own traditional dishes which are very different from the ones from other Italian regions. Umbria features many incredible delicacies, which you should definitely try. Read more about it below.
LOCAL PRODUCTS: The region is famous for its pottery, with its major centres being located in the so-called Pottery Road, which links Deruta to Orvieto. Umbria is also famous for its lentils production, porchetta (roast pork), olive oil, truffles, cured ham and wine.
NATURE & EXTREME SPORTS: Umbria has it all. The region is home to one of the world’s highest man-made waterfalls, and the mointainous area near Norcia is a great place for hiking. Additionally, the Nera River is a gorgeous spot for kayaking, rafting and canyoning, while the Monte Cucco area is well-known in Europe amongst fly enthusiasts for hang gliding and paragliding.
Are you ready to have some fun?
FESTIVALS & EVENTS: Each year, the region of Umbria hosts several events and festivals. Perugia, Umbria’s capital city, is home to Eurochocolate, one of the largest and most assorted chocolate exhibition that attracts all the chocolate lovers from Italy and abroad. The town of Gubbio sees its main festival in the Corsa dei Ceri, a race and celebration that attracts thousands of people each year.
When it comes to music, each summer (usually in July) Perugia hosts the Umbria Jazz Festival, which is one of the most important jazz festivals in the world and has been held annually since 1973. The Umbria Jazz Winter Festival takes place annually in December/January in Orvieto. Spoleto is where the Festival dei Due Mondi happens. This is an annual summer music and opera festival which is held each June to early July, since 1958.
Bevagna is home to the Mercato delle Gaite, one of Italy’s most interesting medieval festivals which we wrote about in this article.
Read more about the Best Things to do in Umbria in our detailed guide.
🗺️ HOW TO USE THIS MAP: Click the top left icon to get more info about this map. Use the star icon next to the title to save it in your Google Maps account. To view it on your phone or computer, open Google Maps, click the menu button, then go to “your places“, tap on “maps” and you will see this map on your list.
Where to stay in Umbria
Umbria is a landlocked region, surrounded by Marche, Lazio and Tuscany. Perugia, Umbria’s capital city, is located in the centre of the region and it’s a good option to explore around. Here you will find many great deals like B&B Luce Riflessa (from €60 EUR/night), B&B Il Bacio (also from €60($60.20 USD)/night), Casa Stella and the lovely A Casa di Mamma Rosy.
Towns like Assisi, Spoleto, Foligno and Terni are also solid alternatives to use as a base, while you can even opt to stay in a smaller town like Bevagna, Todi, Orvieto or in the countryside for a more local authentic experience.
ON A BUDGET: The only hostels in Umbria are found in Perugia (Little Italy Bouitque and Perugia Farmhouse Backpackers), in Assisi-Bevagna (Ostello Bello) and in Foligno (Palazzo Pierantoni – Ostello di Foligno). A bed in a shared room however costs €20 EUR ($20.10 USD) per night, and there aren’t many hostels available, so we’d suggest only opting for hostels if you’re travelling alone or you go for its vibes.
In fact, there are several accommodations that offer basic double-bed rooms for as low as €40 EUR ($40.15 USD)/night, which is the same cost per person as a bed in a hostel if you’re not travelling solo. These budget-friendly options can be found all across Umbria, check the map below for more details.
Booking.comSTAY AT A TYPICAL AGRITURISMO: Agriturismo is an Italian word that combines “agri” (agriculture) and “turismo” (tourism). It basically refers to a farm that produces its own products which are also designed to receive guests. They usually feature beautiful views, a quiet atmosphere, and a pool, as well as amazing food.
You can also visit an agriturismo solely for lunch or dinner, you don’t need to stay there in order to eat there. Also, you could also visit an agriturismo only for their pools: some of them, in fact, offer a daily pass which you can purchase to enjoy their services.
Here are some of our favourite agriturismos – listed at a reasonable price – in Umbria:
Country House Carfagna: Located near Assisi, Country House Carfagna has some of the best reviews on booking.com and it only costs around €80 EUR ($80.30 USD)/night for a double bedroom.
Agriturismo Le Dolci Colline: A double room in this beautiful agriturimos costs about €110 EUR ($110.50 USD)/night. Agriturismo Le Dolci Colline is totally immersed in nature, near the main cultural and artistic centers, Assisi, Gubbio e Perugia. A secluded place but only from noise, smog and stress.
Fattoria Il Bruco: Being just 9km south of Perugia, Fattoria il Bruco is amazingly located. This structure has also great value for money, as a room only costs around €88 EUR ($88.40 USD)/night.
See more beautiful agriturismos and country houses here: agriturismos in Umbria.
LOOKING FOR SOMETHING UNIQUE? Check out Castello di Reschio, an enchanting castle nestled in the hills between Umbria and Tuscany.
Useful Apps and websites
Trenitalia is the official Italy train company. Check out their website to find train rides in Umbra. Other useful websites to book trains are The Train Line (thetrainline.com) and Italia Rail (Italiarail.com). Use Rome2Rio (rome2rio.com) to find the best route before searching for a ticket.
Looking for a bus ride? Check out Omio (omio.com), or search for your bus timeline on FS Bus Italia (fsbusitalia.it). Alternatively, check out BusBud (busbud.com). Also FlixBus (flixbus.com) operates in Italy, and it’s a solid option to reach Perugia from other Italian regions on a budget.
If you’re running out of options you can always check Bla Bla Car (blablacar.co.uk) and see if anyone’s going by car to your same destination, and share the ride with them.
For accommodations in Umbria and Italy in general, most accommodations are listed on Booking (booking.com). Our favourite filters for booking.com in Umbria are the following: very good (8+), max price < €70 EUR ($70.30 USD)/night (per double room). If you have a car, we would also recommend adding “Farm Stays”, “Swimming Pool”, “Country House”, “Bed and Breakfast” and “Lodges” to your filters. Then, order the results either by “Price (lowest first)” or “Best reviewed and lowest price”, and enjoy your cheap but gorgeous accommodations.
The best offline map for hiking in Umbria is Maps.Me (maps.me). With maps.me you can download map for the whole region beforehand and have a trustworthy device in your pocket, so you’ll never get lost. Maps.me also helps you to find water sources on your treks. All Trails (alltrails.com) is another app that is fairly used in the region.
Fancy a glass of wine? Download Vivino (vivino.com), an app that allows you to take a photo at any wine bottles and learn more about it.
Is Umbria expensive to visit?
Umbria is not particularly expensive to visit, especially when compared to other, more popular tourist destinations in Italy like the Amalfi coast for example. However, Umbria is also not very backpacker friendly as central Italy does not have many hostels and getting around may be a bit troublesome if you don’t have a car.
ACCOMMODATION
The price for sleeping in Umbria varies a lot depending on the type of accommodation. When we talk about hostels, a bed in a shared room costs about €20 EUR ($20.10 USD) per night per person. If you’re a couple or you’re travelling with friends there are plenty of options at €40 EUR ($40.15 USD)/night for a double bed room, which is about the same price.
FARM HOUSES & AGRITURISMI: You will find the most charming options in the local farmhouses on the Umbrian hills. While it might sound fancy at first, you can find awesome deals at €50-60 EUR ($50.20-60.20 USD)/night for a double bedroom in a beautiful countryside villa, which often comes with an outdoor pool.
CITY STAYS: Staying in Perugia or in the other Umbrian main towns will cost you about €50-60 EUR ($50.20-60.20 USD)/night for a standard double bedroom. If you’re lucky, you can find deals at around €40 EUR ($40.15 USD)/night for the same type of room even in towns’ historical centres.
TRANSPORTATION
PUBLIC TRANSPORT: Public transport in major cities is very reliable in Umbria, however, when it comes to smaller towns it isn’t always easy to understand how best to get around. A bus ticket will range from 1€ to around 10€, depending on the length of the trip.
RENTAL CARS: If you’re interested in visiting smaller towns, renting your own car is the easiest way to explore the region. The cheapest options in the low season, including insurance and taxes, are priced at around €28-35 EUR ($30-37 USD). Remember you have to add the cost of gasoline and expect to pay higher (sometimes much higher) prices in the high season.
FOOD
A porchetta sandwich will cost you anywhere from 3€ to 7€. A slice of torta al testo goes for €3 EUR ($3.01 USD) to €5 EUR ($5.02 USD). While it highly varies depending on the restaurant, a pasta dish in Umbria costs about €10 EUR ($10.05), antipasti for 2 people will go for anywhere between €8 and 15€ ($8.03-15.05 USD), and the main course is usually priced at €10-15 EUR ($10.05-15.05 USD).
Expect to pay around €20-30 EUR ($20.10-30.10 USD) for a full meal at a local restaurant. This would include a pasta dish and the main course, or antipasti and a main course.
NOTE: Don’t be surprised to pay for water and to see “coperto” in your receipt. It is common to pay for the coperto in Italy, and it usually costs between €1-2 EUR ($1-2.01 USD) per person. On the other hand, it is not common to leave tips.
ACTIVITIES
There are plenty of free activities in Umbria you can do in Umbria, and others that are relatively inexpensive.
For example, a visit to the Monte Cucco caves will cost you €20 EUR ($20.10 USD), a canyoning tour in the Nera River Park goes from €40-80 EUR ($40.15-80.30 USD). Access to the Eurochocolate festival costs €10 EUR ($10.05 USD) per person, while the entry to the Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi is just €2 EUR ($2.02 USD).
If you like extreme sports, a paragliding lesson on the Monte Cucco costs around €110 EUR($110.50 USD). A ticket to the Marmore Falls, on the other hand, only costs €10 EUR ($10.05 USD).
Is Umbria safe?
Italy is generally a safe place to visit, and Umbria quite follows the trend. In fact, considering crime rate, Umbria falls among the top 5 safest Italian regions.
Where present, crime tends not to affect tourism in Umbria, with the worst scores usually referring to drug-related crimes and bribery/corruption.
Obviously, general precautions must always be taken into consideration, especially in bigger cities.
What to eat and drink
The food scene in Italy is incredibly interesting, and Umbria is no exception. When it comes to food, expect to find rustic cuisine, often called “cucina povera” in Italian. The dishes of Umbria originate from its Etruscan roots and rely heavily on seasonal ingredients such as grains, vegetables, fresh herbs, mushrooms, wild asparagus and of course its highly prized truffles.
PORCHETTA: A traditional Italian roast pork, “porchetta” is a tasty dish shared among central Italian regions. Umbria, however, is one of the main producers and consumers. It is a wonderful boneless pork roast wrapped in fat and skin and generously seasoned with garlic, sage, rosemary and other aromatic herbs and spices, which is consumed hot or cold in sandwiches.
TORTA AL TESTO: This Umbrian dish is a focaccia mixed and cooked on a cast iron plate, then filled with the best of the local cold cuts. It translates to “Cake of the Tile”, and it can be found everywhere across Umbria. It is also referred to as “crescia” in some areas of the region.
STRANGOZZI & UMBRICELLI: These are the most popular pasta shape in Umbria. Strangozzi and Umbricelli are often served with black truffle, with wild hare ragù or with a Trasimeno lake sauce, made from lake perch filets, shallots, garlic and chili pepper. Wild boar also dominates the menus when it comes to pasta sauces in Umbria.
CHOCOLATE: Chocolate has been amongst Umbria’s most popular products, with Baci Perugina being the most renowned one. Baci chocolates are made of fine dark chocolate filled with a chocolate-hazelnut cream center and a whole hazelnut. Each year, Perugia hosts the Eurochocolate, one of the world’s most important chocolate events.
WINE: Wine plays an important role in Umbrian production, and this is due to the region’s optimal growing conditions. Sagrantino, Grechetto and Torgiano are just some of the wines produced in the 12 DOC regions of Umbria.
CHEESE: Caciofiore, Giuncata, Pecorino di Norcia and Sheep’s Ricotta are just some of the several types of cheese produced in Umbria.
NORCIA HAM: The mountainous area of Norcia is famous for its ham production. Norcia ham (or Prosciutto di Norcia) is produced in the Valnerina area, which confers to this ham some distinctive flavours thanks to its particular climatic conditions. It is said that good prosciutto needs to have at least ‘experienced one Winter and one Summer’.
TRUFFLE: You can’t leave Umbria without having experienced a truffle dish, or even better, a full truffle meal. In fact, truffle plays a key role in Umbria’s culinary identity, with black truffle being the most typical one.
How long should I stay?
Seeing everything Umbria has to offer is no easy task. Perugia itself would need at least a couple of days to be fully explored, while the region overall – even though it seems tiny on a map – is bigger than it looks. The good news is that most places listed in our things to do in Umbria post are relatively easy to visit and you can squeeze a few of them in the same day.
For us, we would say that 7 days would be the bare minimum duration if you really want to experience the essence of this region. Consider staying longer if you can.
Best tips to visit Umbria
- If you’re going by public transit, plan your trip in advance, especially if you’re planning on visiting more than one place in a short amount of time. It isn’t the easiest region to around with public transit.
- Pack a swimsuit and towel in case you come across a beautiful natural pool along your visit in the thick green landscape of the region.
- When visiting small towns, ask if they have a local museum or check out their churches for impressive frescoes that date back centuries.