When you take a trip to Todi, Umbria, you’re taking a trip through time. Over the course of more than 2000 years, this Umbrian gem has transformed and taken on different cultural and historical importance. Visit Todi and discover the best things to do with our guide!
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About Todi, Umbria
Situated in between the towns of Spoleto and Orvieto, the ancient Umbrian town of Todi hides centuries and centuries of evolution. Its history is so rich it’s hard to condense it into just a few paragraphs, but we’re going to give it a go!
We are looking at a town that is over 2200 years old, and that has changed shape so many times across the centuries. Todi, in fact, was first founded by the Etruscans between the 3rd and 1st century BCE.
From 90 BCE during the Roman era, Todi became a Roman Town Hall as the city expanded with an amphitheatre, baths, and temples. Some remains of Roman civilization are still visible, including the imposing Roman Cisterns recently discovered under Piazza del Popolo.
Subsequently during the Middle Ages (700 AD), castle walls were erected and Todi assumed the typical appearance of a fortress city and was controlled by powerful feudal lords such as the Arnolfi counts, the Montemarte counts and the Atti family.
What you see today in the eyes of the visitors of Todi is a city that has been crystallized over time in which different eras have merged harmoniously.
How to get to Todi, Umbria
Todi is located in the province of Perugia, between the towns of Spoleto and Orvieto. It is about 45km south of the city of Perugia, and you can reach it by car in less than an hour. In general, moving around by car is the easiest in order to visit these charming towns and their surroundings, but the good news is that Todi does have a train station and so whether you’re travelling by car or public transit it doesn’t matter.
By car
Thinking of going by car? There are several parking spots available around the city walls of Todi, both free ones and ones for payment. Reaching the town from other Italian cities is also relatively easy. Todi is located about 40 minutes from Perugia and about 1.5h from Rome. Todi is also only 30km from Orvieto and 45km from Spoleto, which makes it a great stop over on any Umbria road trip itinerary.
By public transport
When travelling to Todi from a major city in neighbouring regions like Tuscany, Lazio or le Marche check out Trenitalia to book your train tickets. This is the official website (they also have an app) to buy train tickets, and it’s especially handy for regional trains.
Get to Todi from Perugia
When we visited Todi there were no trains to either one of these stations due to construction works that started in 2017. From Perugia’s station called Autostazione in Italian, in Piazza Partigiani, you can take bus E012. The trip will last about an hour in length and you’ll get off at stop Ist.Agraria. Then walk 600m (about 10 min) and you’ve arrived!
Tickets cost €1.30 EUR if bought ahead of time and €2 EUR on board ($1.34 and $2.05 USD). Buy tickets at the bus terminal itself or at the various other local tabaccherie consulting Perugia’s map of points of sale.
The main transport website for busses in Umbria, Bus Italia, has a feature on their website to check bus times online from any destination. It’s worth checking out in case you are visiting Todi from other cities and want to check bus times and routes.
Get to Todi from Rome
From Rome’s main train station Termini to Todi, you’ll notice Trenitalia gives you two destination options: Todi Ponte Rio and Todi Ponte Naia. The main train station is Todi Ponte Rio. If construction wasn’t underway, you would select Todi Ponte Rio as your destination. As an alternative trip from Rome, here is how to visit Todi by train from Rome:
Take a regional train from Roma Termini to Terni for the first leg. Ticket prices range from €7.75 EUR to €20 EUR ($8-21 USD) depending on when you buy them.
The second and last part of the leg is to take a bus E620 from Terni to Todi. It’s less than a 5-minute walk from P.Dante (train station) to the bus terminal. The bus trek is an hour and will let you off at V.Crocefisso, after which you walk for 1.1km (about 17 minutes) to reach the hilltop town of Todi. As in Perugia, tickets cost €1.30 EUR on board and €2 EUR on board ($1.34 and $2.05 USD). You can buy tickets at the terminal itself or at the various other local tabaccherie consulting Terni’s map of points of sale.
Best places to visit in Todi, Umbria – One Day Itinerary
The art and architecture in Todi are as rich and varied as the town’s history. From the 16th-century Renaissance pilgrimmage Chiesa della Consolazione to the gothic-style Tempio di San Fortunato, to the city squares, streets, and museums housing the town’s local riches make Todi a city of art.
Check out the map below for the best places to see in Todi:
🗺️ HOW TO USE THIS MAP: Click the top left icon to get more info about this map. Use the star icon next to the title to save it in your Google Maps account. To view it on your phone or computer, open Google Maps, click the menu button, then go to “your places“, tap on “maps” and you will see this map on your list.
Church of Saint Mary of Consolation (Tempio di Santa Maria della Consolazione)
This temple is located outside the last city walls left and its construction, a symbol of the Italian Renaissance, took about a century of work to complete starting in the early sixteenth century. Its style contrasts with that of the historic medieval centre of Todi, and it’s not clear who commissioned the works inside. However, it is believed that the project was entrusted to Bramante, a renowned architect and painter, who did not complete it on his own but contracted several other architects to work on this jewel.
An important art piece inside is the “La Madonna con Bambino e lo Sposalizio di Santa Caterina d’Alessandria”, which is found on one of the church’s apses. In the interior of the temple of Santa Maria della Consolazione there are also 12 plaster statues, positioned in niches, that depict the apostles. A drum dome rises above the terrace which, equipped with a lantern, brings the total height of the temple of Santa Maria della Consolazione to 72 metres!
Piazza del Popolo
Defined by the famour German historian Gregorovius as one of the most beautiful medieval squares in Italy, Todi’s Piazza del Popolo (or People’s Square) has represented the noble city centre since Roman times. The square was built over a series of large cisterns with several compartments, which are still well preserved and open to visitors. These cisterns, in addition to constituting an enormous water reserve, did also serve the purpose of draining the surface water and limit the stability problems that have been affecting the hill of Todi for centuries.
The cisterns, made up of twelve compartments on the side, are accessible to the public and are of considerable size: 80 metres long, 8 metres wide and 8 metres high. Around Piazza del Popolo there are the most famous monuments of Todi.
The most noticeable palaces in Piazza del Popolo are Palazzo del Popolo, Palazzo del Capitano and Palazzo dei Priori, as well as Todi’s Cathedral.
Palazzo del Capitano and Palazzo del Popolo
When looking at the palaces, on the left you’ll see Palazzo del Capitano and on the right the older Palazzo del Popolo. The latter, built in 1213, was realized in a Lombard-Gothic style and is narrow and high. Palazzo del Capitano, on the other hand, was built in 1293 and was identified as the “new building of the Municipality”, to distinguish it from the already existing Palazzo del Popolo.
Inside the Palazzo del Capitano and the Palazzo del Popolo are the headquarters of the municipality and the civic museum of Todi, including the lapidary museum where there are numerous finds from city excavations. Through the staircase that allows access to the first floors of the two buildings, you can access the so-called Sala del Capitano del Popolo, where some suggestive frescoes painted between the 13th and 14th centuries are still visible.
TIP: In Piazza del Popolo there is an info point for visitors. When we visited we were able to purchase a combined museum ticket for €8.50 EUR $8.70 USD) granting us access to the Bell Tower of the church of San Fortunato, the museum of the Lucrezie and Lapidario complex, the PInacoteca museum, and the Cisterns. Since the Cisterns were closed when we visited, we were given access to the famous “Painted House”.
Palazzo dei Priori
Palazzo dei Priori was built between 1334 and 1347. The building is characterized by its trapezoidal tower, and it dominates the side of the square opposite the Cathedral. Renovated in the early 1500s by the cardinal Antonio Ciocchi del Monte, on the highest part of the façade there is the bronze Eagle Todi, made in 1339 by Giovanni di Giliaccio.
Palazzo dei Priori has a tower that rises on its left side, dominating the battlements of the rest of the building. This tower was added in the second half of the 14th century.
Duomo di Todi, Umbria – Concattedrale della Santissima Annunziata
Also located on Todi’s main square, the Duomo – or Todi’s Cathedral – was built between the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. It’s important to mention that in the same location there was already a church from the Roman era, which was destroyed during a fire at the end of the twelfth century.
On the internal façade there is one of the main works of the cathedral: the fresco of the Last Judgment created at the end of the sixteenth century and which refers to the work of the same name by Michelangelo. Another historical element is the wooden choir that surrounds the altar and which was built around 1521. Among the oldest works of the church, there is instead the painted wooden crucifix dating back to the mid-thirteenth century and hung on the altar.
The Oratory of the Santissima Annunziata – Church of the Nunziatina
The Santissima Nunziatina church is a true masterpiece of Baroque art. Behind a small door and after paying a €2 EUR ticket ($2.05 USD), you’ll walk through an enchanted oratory. Every bit of this church is painted and it’s commonly referred to as the little Sistine Chapel for its frescoed ceiling and open 8 chapels. Paintings by renowned artists such as Veronese and Andrea Polinori also adorn the walls.
The facade of the Oratory of the Santissima Annunziata – known to most as the Church of the Nunziatina – in fact, consists of a smooth plastered wall, with only the door that introduces us inside the structure. This Church is located right behind Todi’s main square and it can be visited daily from 10AM to 12:30PM and from 3PM to 6PM.
San Fortunato Church
The Temple of San Fortunato in Todi stands in Piazza Umberto I, on top of a beautiful staircase, above the remains of a complex prior to the year 1000.
This gothic-meets-Renaissance-style church is iconic for its incomplete façade and vaulted interior. Inside, frescoes by Masolino da Panicale decorate the walls and is home to the tomb of Beato Jacopone, the patron saint of Todi.
We recommend visiting the bell tower because when you reach the top of it, you have a beautiful view of all of Todi. The bell tower, as well as the church itself, is open from 10AM to 1PM and from 3PM to 6PM. The last access is 20 minutes prior the closing time.
Reaching the top is not particularly challenging. There are 153 steps separating the church to the top of the tower, which will take you around 5 minutes.
Teatro Comunale di Todi, Umbria
This beautiful theatre was inaugurated in 1876 and was designed by the architect Carlo Gatteschi. The theatre seats 499 people and consists of four tiers. The wide, ovoid parterre is a 20th-century architectural jewel, and decorating it are four terracotta medallions, representing the masters of opera Metastasio, Alfieri, Rossini, and Goldoni, made by the hands of the artists Angeletti and Biscarini. Since 1992, the theatre has hosted a wide variety of shows, from operas to musicals.
Porta Marzia
The Porta Marzia, known as the Marzia Gate in English, is a door under a blind arch (known as the arco della Concezione or arch of the conception) in the masonry of the ancient Etruscan fortress walls. It’s an important gate historically because it faces the direction of Rome, and dates to the 5-4th century BCE. This arch is historically important because it symbolized the relationship between the city of Todi and Rome.
Arco del monastero di San Francesco
The Monastery of St Francis is located in Todi along Via di Borgo Nuovo and is inhabited by the Nuns of the Poor Clares order. The arch, known as the Arch of Sant’Andrea, gets its name from the nearby alley. While it may seem like it’s one of the main city gates, it’s not. It’s a simple arch built around the 1730s to connect two buildings of the Monastery of San Francesco.
Porta Perugina
Porta Perugina, also known as Porta di Borgo Nuovo, stretches for about 4km and is located near the Ponte del Rio, near a small parking lot from which you can walk towards the historic centre. It as built around 1244 and is one of the ancient city walls of Todi still standing which is why it is so significant. Architecturally, it is a bastion wall, meaning a structure projecting outward from the wall of an ancient fortification, most commonly positioned at the corners of the fort.
Via delle mura antiche
The Via delle mura antiche is a quaint and narrow street. On one side you have the façades of historic buildings and, on the other, the first stone walls that once protected the town. This street was home to local workshops in ancient times and today they’ve been transformed into homes for local residents. It’s a charming street to stroll down!
Piazza del Montarone
Piazza del Montarone is a public square below the old city wall. This beautiful piazza, however, has a dark but interesting legend. It is believed that in 1428 a woman by the name of Matteuccia di Francesco was burnt at the stake after she was accused of witchcraft. During the famous Carnival festival in Todi, a historical procession is staged, in which they also re-enact the fatal death.
Piazza Garibaldi
This square was originally called Piazza San Giovanni because of the church that used to stand above it and was demolished at the end of the 13th century. Today, we know this public square as Piazza Garibaldi because of the statue placed in the centre commemorating the historical figure of Garibaldi and his passage from Todi, in retreat from the defeat of the Roman Republic. It is said that he sought refuge in Todi with his beloved Anita. Reaching the bottom of the square one can enjoy the beautiful panorama below, and while turning in the direction of the statue of Garibaldi you can see part of Palazzo del Popolo.
Piazza del Mercato Vecchio e i Nicchioni Romani
If you’re travelling by car this is the piazza where you can park it as today it’s mainly used as a parking lot. This piazza has four large Roman niches (Nicchioni Romani) on which houses were built which is an interesting detail that bears witness to the Roman presence in Todi. It’s believed that the niches were part of a basilica that was once here, but now destroyed, that was dedicated to the Roman deity of Mars. The Piazza del Mercato Vecchio, literally the old market square, owes its name to the street Via del Mercato Vecchio which is home to the local street market since 1819.
Chiesa di San Silvestro e i Presepi
If you love frescoes, you will love the Church of San Silvestro! The church is dedicated to Saint Sylvester, the pope who led the Catholic Church from 314 to 335 AD. Its origins are quite ancient, with the oldest parts dating back to the 11th century. The remaining parts are the result of numerous renovations over the centuries, starting after the great earthquake of 1298. The frescoes that are still partly visible were mostly executed between 1300 and 1500 by various Umbrian artists, such as Petruccioli, Sensini and Polinori. Among the most important frescoes is one of the first portraits of the famous Jacopone da Todi.
Chiesa di Sant’Antonio
The church of Sant’Antonio is closed to visitors and only opens its doors during certain FAI (Fondo per l’Ambiente Italiano – Fund for the Italian Environment) days. FAI is an initiative that aims to help protect historic monuments and buildings. If you are in Todi during the days that it is open, it’s definitely worth visiting to admire the frescoes. The FAI website posts which days they plan to open, stay tuned for upcoming dates.
Porta Catena (Arco di Sant’Antonio)
The name Porta della Catena, meaning gate of the Chain, comes from the custom of pulling chains over the entrance to bar access to people on horseback until they were recognized by security forces. From outside of the Porta della Catena is the coat of arms of Todi that can be seen on the top of the arch. The symbol of the eagle is the oldest in Todi, dating to the 13th century. Inside, however, are frescoes that date to between the 17th and 18th centuries.
This is the city’s second circle of ancient walls, together with Porta Prassede and Porta Aurea which were built by the Romans in the 1st century BCE. During this period it was known as Porta Carrigii because it was from here that people would pass through with carriages. But why build a second circle of fortress walls you might ask? The city was expanding and they wanted to delineate their expansion.
Chiesa di San Nicolò
Today, the area in front of the church is commonly used for parking. The church of San Nicolò dates to the 14th century and is a very beautiful, intimate single-nave church with round arches that support the wooden ceiling. At the foot of the altar is a statue of Saint Nicholas, made of wax.
Porta Romana
Via di Porta Romana is the street that’s known to be the main entrance of the city. This historic structure has been inserted inside more modern buildings that are linked to the medieval city walls. The gate was built at the request of Pope Gregory XIII in the 16th century and is considered the main entrance to the city. You can also park your car nearby and walk towards the old city centre.
Porta Amerina
Also known as Porta Fratta, Porta Amerina dates to the 14th centry. This gateway into the city of Todi is part of the medieval outer walls that run along the entire perimeter of the city that today are made up of homes. Through this arched gateway are a flight of stairs that take you into the city. Its location is historically significant because it’s on the road that led the expansion of the city of Rome towards Umbria and served as a Byzantine corridor, meaning it served as a link between the city of Rome and the eastern empire, during the Lombard domination.
Porta Aurea e Chiesa di San Giuseppe
As you may have begun to notice, there are three main perimeters of old city walls. Porta Aurea is a gateway to the city that blends in with the nearby Church of St Joseph and belongs to the second circle of walls. The church dates to 1640 and was built for the confraternity of the town carpenters, an institution dating back to the Middle Ages, and was named after their patron saint. While the exterior façade is simple and hides signs of old windows, now closed, the interior is decorated with 17th and 18th-century frescoes telling the story of Saint Joseph.
The name of the gateway recalls that of the goddess Venus, also known as Aurea, and it is the endpoint of the famous Cento Scale (hundred stairs) that takes you towards the centre.
Check out the Belvedere
Belvedere is an Italian word that means viewpoint. The belvedere in Todi offers the best views over the city, and we highly recommend coming here at sunrise or sunset.
This viewpoint lays just a couple of hundred meters after the church of San Fortunato, so it’s very easy to reach on walk.
Where to stay in Todi, Umbria
ON A BUDGET: Unfortunately, there are no hostels in Todi. The cheapest accommodations can be found in the form of small apartments or room managed by private hosts. In this range you will find places like La Maison at €55 EUR ($56 USD)/night per double room, Casa di Anna at €68 EUR ($70 USD)/night for the entire studio.
SWIMMING POOL: The best accommodations featuring a swimming pool overlooking the Umbrian hills are Agriturismo Pane e Olio at €63 EUR ($65 USD)/night per double room, L’Aurora at €120 EUR ($123 USD)/night per double room, and Casale le Orme at €109 EUR ($112 USD)/night per double room.
LUXURY: Todi offers some great options for those seeking relaxation in a luxury structure. Check out Roccafiore Spa & Resort from €161 EUR ($165 USD)/night, Hotel Bramante from €150 EUR ($154 USD)/night, and Relais Todini from €209 EUR ($214 USD)/night, which are amongst the best in the area.
Best restaurants in Todi, Umbria: what to eat and drink
One of the pros of travelling in Italy is the culinary experience that comes with the trip. The region of Umbria and the town of Todi are no exception, featuring some great restaurants and local dishes.
For a delicious lunch on the go try the salty crêpe at le Roi del a crêpe. Their lunches range from €5-7 EUR ($5.10-7.20 USD) and include vegetarian options and choices of roasted and cured meats.
Looking for more street food like a hardy Italian hamburger? Try Il grottino (little grotto) in Piazza Garibaldi. They’re open every day, except Mondays, from 12pm-15pm and 19pm-12am and only accept cash for payment.
Enjoy a delicious meal of local delicacies, like truffle, with friendly staff and ambiance at the restaurant Pane e Vino (bread and wine)! A first course will cost around €12 EUR ($12.30 USD) and second course meals start at €19 EUR ($19.50 USD).
Stop at Osteria Valle, a great spot for trying local dishes, like the fettuccine al tartufo or roasted lamb, and also some traditional recipes with a new spin such as pasta with smoked duck. A first course will cost around €14 EUR ($14.50 USD) and a second course €15-25 EUR ($15.50-25.50 USD).
Osteria Novecento also offers a great selection of local wines and homemade pasta in a welcoming cozy atmosphere. This restaurant shakes up its menu each day with the dish of the day. We recommend calling in advance to make your reservation as spaces fill up: +39 075 885 2294 or sending an email to: info@osterianovecentoilci.it
For a more fine dining experience, check out La Cantina del Mercataccio. This restaurant prides itself on using local and in-season ingredients combining tradition and modern Umbrian cuisine. They also include vegetarian options. Reservations here are needed, you can call them at +39 075 997 7755 or send an email to lacantinadelmercataccio2020@gmail.com
Best things to do near Todi, Umbria – Explore its surroundings
If you choose Todi as your base for your stay in Umbria, there are several things you can do on a day trip from here. Todi, in fact, is conveniently located to explore the southern side of the Umbrian region.
The town of Orvieto
The stunning town of Orvieto lies 37km west of Todi. It is considered one of Umbria’s most fascinating places thanks to its unique shape carved out of the cliff, history and architecture. Orvieto, in fact, stands entirely on a tuff cliff and dominates the Paglia river valley. Places of interest to visit include the Pozzo di San Patrizio, the Cathedral of Orvieto, the San Brizio Chapel, and the underground city, amongst many others.
Hike to La Roccaccia
The Roccaccia are the remains of an old fortress built on a cliff, overlooking the gorgeous valley of the Tiber River, as well as the Corbara lake. You can get to La Roccaccia after a 45 minutes hike starting in castle-town of Titignano, about 20km from Todi.
The hike is quite easy and you actually go downwards on your way to La Roccaccia, having to hike up on your way back. Titignano is also worth a visit. It is an encredibly charming little town which was restored and turned into an event venue, with rooms and a restaurant. It is often used for weddings on the Italian hills.
Go on a day trip to Spoleto
Spoleto is located about 45km east from Todi and it’s an absolute masterpiece when it comes to Italian medieval towns. If you like architecture, history and those charming medieval views and streets, consider visiting Spoleto on a day trip. The town is known for an annual festival called the Festival dei Due Mondi (Festival of two worlds) that takes place towards the end of June/early July that’s a tribute to different art forms, having hosted some renowned artists such as Pavarotti and Andy Warhol. If you’re planning on visiting during this period look for shows, you won’t be disappointed!
Check out the Marmore Falls
Visit the tallest waterfalls in Umbria! The Marmore Falls are a great pleace to visit when in Umbria, especially during the hot summer months. There is a lot to do in the area, including hiking, kayaking, canyoning and more.
You can read more about how to travel there on our full guide to the Marmore Falls.
Monte Castello di Vibio
This tiny town on the hills near Todi is a great option for a day trip. It is – allegedly – home to the smallest active historical theatre in the world. It’s the Concordia theatre, and it has all the features of the biggest theatres, but in a miniature scale. In fact, there are only 99 seats inside.
The Balloon Festival in Todi, Umbria
Todi hosts awesome events year-round, including the hot air balloon festival – referred to as Italian International Balloon Grand Prix – that takes place in late July early August for two weeks. Atmospheric conditions need to be just right for the event to take place which is why the summer season is ideal.
The event takes place between Todi and the nearby town of Gualdo Cattaneo, creating a spectacular view of colourful floating balloons – 100 balloons to be exact coming from around the world! But be prepared to wake up early to catch them!
The balloons take flight each morning at around 6:30am and fly over Todi, then either head north towards Perugia or south towards Amelia.
Best time to visit Todi, Umbria
Todi can be visited year round. Winter months (Dec to March) see the lowest temperatures, often reaching 0°C or below. The hours of sun are also at their lowest during this period, with an average of 5-6 hours of sunlight per day.
Summer months (June to August), on the other hand, experience the highest temperatures. 2021 and 2022 in particular have seen crazy high temperatures, often hitting 36°C and sometimes even reaching 38°C. Keep this in mind if you can’t tollerate the heat, as the situation is unlikely to get any better in the next years.
Spring and Autumn are the best seasons for visiting Todi. The temperatures are more moderate and there are also less tourists around. At the same time, this is when Todi sees the most amount of rain. It’s nothing like the rainy season you would experience on a tropical destination, but it’s still something to keep in mind.