The Battle of the Oranges: inside Italy’s craziest festival

Dating back to 1808, the Ivrea’s carnival is one of the oldest festivals in Italy. Carnival is celebrated all over the world, especially in countries with large Catholic communities. From Rio de Janeiro to Rome, people take to the streets to eat, drink, and celebrate the season. After days of festivals and parades, carnival culminates in one last night of partying called Fat Tuesday or Mardi Gras. But in Ivrea, carnival includes a unique tradition: the Battle of the Oranges.

• Save

• Save

History of the Battle of the Oranges

For the three days leading up to Fat Tuesday, the men, women, and children participate in the largest organized food fight in Italy – the Battle of the Oranges.

The origins of the fight are a little murky but seem to date back to a medieval revolt. In the 1100s, Ivrea was ruled by an evil tyrannical duke.

Legend has it that the duke tried to attack a young miller’s daughter (mugnaia in Italian) on her wedding night. Instead, she decapitated him and started a revolution. Following her lead, the townspeople of Ivrea stormed the palace and burned it to the ground.

Today, nearly a millennia later, the people of Ivrea commemorate their revolution. Although this time they are armed with oranges and padding, instead of swords and torches. Every festival, a local woman is elected to represent the brave miller’s daughter and lead the food-fighting festivities.

• Save

What is the Battle of the Oranges?

The Battle of the Oranges marks the end of the Ivrea’s Carnival, every year since 1947. It is fought for three days, from Sunday to Shrive Tuesday.

It is played between the nine teams of Aranceri (orange-throwers) on foot, who represent the people who revolted, and the Aranceri on horse-drawn carriages, who play the role of the feudal armies.

The battle is a mix of passion and solidarity. It is very common to see rivals shake hands, show respect to one another, and recognize each other’s skills and courage.

• Save

• Save

The Battle of the Oranges is based on written and unwritten rules:

The nine teams have a designated area for their throwers (wearing tunics and trousers in their team’s colours).

The 51 orange-throwing carriages are divided into 35 pairs and 16 quadrilles, and they all gather at 1 pm before the start of the battle. The carts alternate, heading into the town squares for a few minutes, giving life to battles against the teams on foot.

Try to imagine over 7000 people flocking to the streets of a quiet small town to take part in this unique celebration, throwing oranges at each other: this is the Battle of the Oranges.

Over 600 tonnes of oranges are thrown during the festival, which corresponds to over 4.2 million oranges. It is important to note that these oranges aren’t suitable for commercial purposes. More about this topic on the “Ethics & Sustainability” further down.

Horses are considered to be the main stars of the event, they have always been taken care of with great love and respect.

The historical and cultural aspects of the battle make it one of the most important festivals today, both on a national and an international level. Everyone can take part in the battle by joining either one of the nine teams on foot or one of the squads.

---

---

• Save

Where does the Battle unfold?

The Battle of the Oranges takes place in Ivrea, a tranquil town of about 23,000 people. It is located near the city of Turin, in the Piedmont region of northern Italy.

Since 2018, “Ivrea, an industrial city of the 20th century” has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The site brings together 27 buildings and architectural complexes.

The Battle of the Oranges occurs across various squares and streets within the city center. Refer to the map below, which outlines the route of the orange-throwing carriages and identifies the different squares where the battle unfolds.

• Save

Each team fights in a specific location: “Asso di Picche“, born in 1947, throws in Piazza di Città (11), and they share the “Piazza” (the square) with “la Morte” (1954).

In Piazza Ottinetti (10) we will find the “Scacchi” (1964) and “Scorpioni d’Arduino” (1966), while “I Tuchini del Borghetto” (1964) throw in the so called Borghetto (15), on the right side of the river Dora Baltea.

In Piazza del Rondolino (8) we will find “Pantera Nera” (1966), the “Diavoli” (1973) and the “Mercenari” (1974). Lastly, the “Credendari” (1985) throw in piazza Freguglia (9).

• Save

When is the Battle of the Oranges?

The Battle of the Oranges takes place every year, from the Sunday of Carnival to Fat Tuesday.

In 2021 and 2022 the festival did not take place due to covid restrictions. However, the Battle of the Oranges saw a huge comeback in 2023 and 2024, counting 19.700 spectators on Sunday only in 2023, and about 17.000 in 2024.

Battle of the Oranges 2024

The Battle of the Oranges took place in Ivrea from February 11th to February 13th, 2024. The Diavoli team emerged victorious at the carnival after three days of intense competition.

• Save

Where to sleep in Ivrea

If you’re coming to Ivrea for the Battle of the Oranges, it’s best to stay in the city center. You can walk everywhere, have drinks without worrying about driving, and always have a place nearby to freshen up and change clothes.

But remember, because lots of people come and Ivrea isn’t very big, most folks book their rooms more than a year ahead. So, if you’re thinking of visiting, plan early to make sure you get a place to stay.

Here are some of the best accommodations located in the city of Ivrea. The prices shown are for 2 people, per night.

ON A BUDGET: Il Cantuccio (€51), Ivrea La Bella (€58), La Casa di Aurora (€65).

MID-RANGE: Studio Flat in Borghetto (€70), CameLia (€75), Apartment I Colori (€90), Domus LEYDI (€102)

LUXURY: ReArduinoIvrea (€102), Spazio[Bianco] (€123), Dora Maison de Charme (€118), 3T Boutique Hotel (€159)

BONUS: check out Romantic Gipsy (€86) for a unique stay near Ivrea.

• Save

Tickets, prices, and reservations

Spectators:

The entrance fee for spectators is €15 EUR ($15 USD) on Sunday (free for children up to 12yo), and it is free for everyone on Monday and Tuesday.

The price used to be €10 EUR on Sunday, but it has been raised to €15 EUR IN 2023 amongst many complaints.

Orange-throwers:

Everyone can apply to become an orange thrower. Reservations for people that aren’t native of Ivrea and that have not attended the festival in the previous year open on the 10th of January.

The participation fee is about €90 – €120 EUR (depending on the team), and includes food & wine on the 3 days of the festival, as well as the oranges.

In addition, first-timers are required to buy a uniform, or “divisa”, which costs around €50 – €80 EUR. After the festival, you can keep the uniform, and each year you participate you would sew a new patch onto it. You can see in the picture below all the patches from the different editions of the carnival.

• Save

Here are the websites of the 9 teams:

• Asso di Picche (www.aranceriassodipicche.it)
• Aranceri della Morte (www.arancerimorte.it)
• I Tuchini del Borghetto (www.tuchini.it)
• Scacchi (www.aranceriscacchi.it)
• I Mercenari (www.mercenari.it)
• Pantera Nera (www.aranceripanteranera.com)
• I Diavoli (www.diavoliaranceri.it)
• Gli Scorpioni d’Arduino (www.scorpionidarduino.it)
• I Credendari Aranceri (www.credendariaranceri.it)

Can I make a reservation online?

Due to high demand, there is a general preference for in-person registration. Some teams do not allow online registrations at all, while others make it possible but only via email or in specific cases.

Each team, however, has its own rules, so we highly recommend checking their websites for updated information. The rules also differ between people who have already participated and first-timers.

• Save

The Battle of the Oranges – our best tips

Before anything else, if you plan to attend as a spectator, it’s essential to wear a “berretto frigio,” or Phrygian Hat. This distinctive red, soft conical cap isn’t just a carnival accessory; it’s a practical measure to avoid becoming a target during the traditional orange battle, as per both tradition and the General’s Orders.

Donning this hat also signifies your full participation in the event. You can purchase one onsite for around €5 EUR from one of the many stalls.

• Save

Here are a few additional suggestions:

• Always keep a safe distance from the horses: never stand behind, around or near the horses even if they are standing still. Obviously, do NOT throw oranges at the horses.
  
• Do not pick oranges from the boxes without the permission of the team. Outsiders are not allowed to throw, but you can make your way around it if you are nice to the members of the team.
  
• Do not throw oranges from distance. Oranges are supposed to be thrown from nearby the wagons only. This is to avoid oranges hitting spectators and other people who are not directly involved in the fight on the other side of the square.
  
• Do NOT wear glasses in the areas directly involved in the Orange Battle. Even though oranges aren’t supposed to be thrown from distance, there is a chance an orange could hit you even though you are far from the fight.
  
• Be careful when you stand close behind the protection nets. Nets are designed to avoid oranges hitting the buildings and people behind them, but they will not protect you if you stand too close to them.
  
• DO NOT enter the areas involved in the Orange Battle with pushchairs and prams.

• Save

Things to keep in mind

Wear clothes appropriate for the festival. The layer of smashed oranges on the ground can be as deep as 40 cm in some parts of the street. Dress accordingly: wear boots and trousers you don’t mind getting dirty. Also, bring spare clothes for when the festival is over.

On Sunday, the carnival sees the most amount of visitors which results in lines at the train stations and ticket counters. Also, some trains get full and they will refuse more people to board.

On Tuesday, the closing ceremony is celebrated. We recommend staying until late Tuesday to watch it and complete the full experience!

Since it’s a popular festival, book your accommodation more than two weeks (possibly even months) in advance as places fill up fast and costs can get high. Some of the orange throwers book their accommodation for the next edition of the carnival up to one year in advance, so you can understand why the houses with a central location are in such high demand during the Battle of the Oranges.

• Save

Ethics and sustainability of the Orange Battle

While this food fight may seem like a massive waste at first glance, there is a lot going on behind the scenes.

The oranges

First of all, it is important to mention that the oranges used in the festival are fruits that would be destinated for pulping otherwise. These oranges, in fact, could never be commercialized and farmers would need to dispose of them.

Instead, farmers are getting paid for their products and the oranges are even used for further processing after the battle. You can see below some of the oranges used at the festival.

• Save

Compost & energy

After each day of battle, the smashed oranges are collected and stored in a specific tank.

Subsequently, the citrus fruits to be disposed of are transported to a plant that takes care of their disposal by transforming them into compost and energy. In 2016, the plant transformed over 680 tons of oranges into compost.

The support against the organised crime

The fruits come mostly from Calabrian and Sicilian companies operating in the Libera circuit.

In other words, the festival supports companies that are active to raise awareness and contrast the phenomenon of the mafias in southern regions where organised crime still represents a problem.

Cleaning after the battle

The streets of Ivrea get cleaned each afternoon after the battle. Below is a comparison of the same bridge during the festival and the next morning.