Sacro Monte di Varallo – A 21st Century Pilgrimmage

When you visit the Sacro Monte di Varallo, you will be walking in the footsteps of pilgrims of a long time ago. See the frescoes come alive with their sculpture counterparts as you visit the chapels sprawled across the grounds at this 15th-century wonder.

This is your twenty-first-century pilgrimmage guide to this magical place that combines art and architecture with nature.

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SKIP AHEAD


What is the Sacro Monte di Varallo

This UNESCO heritage site has an interesting tale to tell… let’s start with its name. Known as the Sacro Monte, meaning the sacred mount, this 15th-century jewel is often referred to as the New Jerusalem. How can there be a “new” Jerusalem, and out of all places in Italy?

Well, in the 15th century, the Franciscan friar Bernardino Caimi designed the Sacro Monte as a small Holy Land on the rocky slopes of the Piemontese town of Varallo at the feet of the alps. His vision was to re-create the main landmarks of Jerusalem that were linked to the life of Christ.

Is this the only one of its kind? I’m glad you asked…actually, Italy is home to nine Sacri Monti that are all situated in the northern parts of the country that date between the 16th and 17th centuries. You can find them in Varallo, Crea, Orta, Varese, Oropa, Ossuccio, Ghiffa, Domodossola and Valperga. Each of them has its unique flair, but one thing that ties them together is they all include groups of chapels and interesting architectural features that date to the late 15th and 17th centuries.

Looking to visit more UNESCO heritage sites? Read our full guide on visiting Madeira Island.

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Inside one of the chapels of the Sacro Monte di Varallo

The entire Sacro Monte is a complex of 45 chapels, and the Basilica di S. Maria Assunta del Sacro Monte, that you visit in a circuit along a cobbled path in the midst of this green and rocky mount. In total, there are more than 800 life-size painted statues made out of wood and terracotta that really bring to life the narrative and fresco cycle of the life of Christ.

What makes these chapels different is that these life-size sculptures look like they are part of the frescoed images that vividly decorate the chapel walls. Note that when you visit the chapels, screens like the metal bars you see in the photo below, cover almost all of the chapels to protect them. 

A visit to the Sacro Monte di Varallo is perfect for a weekend stay in you’re exploring the Lombardi or Piedmont regions of Italy. You can comfortably visit all of the chapels in one day and enjoy exploring the town of Varallo itself for the remaining of your day. More than two days will feel long.

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Inside one of the complexes at the Sacro Monte di Varallo

The Free Pilgrimmage Route

Visiting the Sacro Monte di Varallo is FREE. You do need to pay for the funivia to make your way up the mountain (if you don’t have a car) but it’s affordable. Skip ahead to find out what the heck a funivia is and how to get to the Sacro Monte.

Imagine this: you get off the funivia and are immediately inside a small caffè that overlooks the valley of Varallo. Nice right?

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View of Varallo from the Sacro Monte di Varallo

From here, you follow the cobble-stone path where you’ll see signs that direct you towards the first chapel. Throughout the complex you’ll find maps and signs to help direct you. On the outside of each chapel, the number is also written.

You would need at least 2 hours to comfortably walk through and take in the sites of the 45 chapels. What’s nice is that you aren’t rushed and can even divide your visit and see the chapels lit up at night.

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Map of the Sacro Monte di Varallo

How to get to the Sacro Monte di Varallo

Can you imagine that centuries ago, people would walk to the Sacro Monte di Varallo on foot as part of their pilgrammage journey! We can’t because reaching the Sacro Monte di Varallo is not super easy today with public transit, let alone imagining what it must have been like on foot!

While not impossible, it’s important to check the route of local busses and trains that you want to take ahead of time so that you don’t end up stranded. We asked the barista at a local bar what the cost would be to take a taxi from a nearby town, only it’s not such a nearby town, Vercelli, and got a few crazy looks, so bottom line… plan in advance if you’re using public transit!

This is not the kind of destination you just wake up and decide to go to on a whim unless you’re going by car. In this section, you’ll learn the easiest ways to arrive.

Getting there by car

Varallo is located about 130km north-east of Turin and about 115km north-west of Milan. Once you leave the “Autostrada” (which is the italian expressway), the road to Varallo follows the path of the Sesia river. Keep in mind that every Autostrada in italy has tolls, and they are indicated with a green sign. You can opt to avoid them by following the non-express regular route.

Once you get to Varallo, reaching the actual Sacro Monte by car is fairly simple. You have two options: you either decide to go all the way up to the Sacro Monte where you’ll find a paid parking, or you opt to stop at the foothill of the Sacred Mountain and take the cableway instead, where the parking is free.

Below are the exact locations to the two parking options:

Parking at Sacro Monte

Parking at the cableway

Getting there using public transit

We visited Varallo from Milano, by transiting through Vercelli. This was the quickest and easiest option since there aren’t direct options from larger metropolitan cities.

By bus

There is one direct bus that you can take from Milan to arrive at the Sacro Monte di Varallo and vice versa: the 903 Baranzelli coach bus.

In Milan, hop on the 903 at the Autostazione Terminal Bus Di Lampugnano (Lampugnano is a metro stop on Line 1 in Milan). The name of the Pullman bus company is Baranzelli Natur #903 and the ticket costs €10.30 EUR ($10.50 USD)/one way and you can only buy tickets on the bus (pack cash).

On the return – you take the bus back to the Stazione Piazza Marconi, always purchasing your tickets on board. If you want to check bus times, head to Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II in Varallo where you can ask for pamphlets with bus times to plan your return trip and the local info point.

By train

Unfortunately, there is no train from Milan to Varallo. The best regional train route you can take is from Milano Centrale to Vercelli. Use the Trenitalia train app to get your tickets hassle-free. Tickets cost €7.55 EUR($7.60 USD)/each way and it’s about an hour-long ride.

From here, take bus #50 from the Autostazione corso Garibaldi (a two-minute walk from the train station). You can buy your tickets and find bus times at the local tabaccheria (corner shop) right outside the train station on your way to the bus terminal. Tickets cost €6.30 EUR($6.40 USD)/each way. When we went it was a Saturday, and there was only 1 bus all day, so be sure to time the departure when you arrive at the train station so you don’t miss it!

Upon your arrival at Varallo, you’ll need to walk for about 10 minutes before you arrive at the funivia (trolley). Varallo is a small town, we met super friendly locals who helped direct us in the right direction to the funivia. The cost of the funivia roundtrip is slightly less than buying just a one-way ticket:

  • One way: €3.00 EUR($3.03 USD)
  • Roundtrip: €5.00 EUR($5.04 USD)
  • Summer hours: 9.00 AM to 18.00 PM Monday to Friday and 9.00 AM to 19.00 PM Saturday and Sunday.

When you arrive, look up, and you’ll see the Sacro Monte. Follow it like it’s your north star!

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Road to the funivia, Varallo

Another handy app for travelling in Italy is My Cicero. You can buy your tickets using this app, and the timings are way more reliable than Google maps. Also note, that even if Google maps says there is a bus service on Sundays… double-check it. It was our experience that we trusted the hours on Google and there was no return bus at the hours indicated going from Varallo to Vercelli.

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Sacro Monte di Varallo chapels complex

Where to stay in Varallo

The town of Varallo itself has charming accommodations to choose from, but we highly recommend staying on the Sacro Monte for the most authentic pilgrimmage experience.

La casa del pellegrino

Since it’s not super easy to get to, we highly recommend sleeping in Varallo for one night. To make the most of your experience in this beautiful pilgrimmage site, stay at La Casa del Pellegrino di Elisabetta Azzaro. Firstly, Elisabetta and her partner were so welcoming and kind that made staying here a real treat! Secondly, as soon as you get out of the funivia, you’ll see a caffè. This is their caffè that serves breakfast and meals with a stunning view of the whole town of Varallo from above.

Sleep above the chapels the way monks and pilgrims did and enjoy a lovely stay in the 15th-century idea of the New Jerusalem! The cost for 1 room with 2 twin beds was €80 EUR($80.50 USD) + €2 EUR($2.03 USD) tourist charge. This includes a complimentary breakfast.

You can call Elisabetta at +39 338 1910896 or send her an email at info@lacasadelpellegrino.eu for booking.

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Inside a double twin-bed room at the Casa del Pellegrino

Vecchio Albergo Sacro Monte

The only other accommodation on the top of the Sacro Monte is the Vecchio Albergo Sacro Monte. A single room costs between €60-75 EUR($60.30-75.50 USD)/per night with a minimum stay of 3 nights and a double room costs €86-90 EUR($86.50-90.50 USD)/per night with a minimum stay of 3 nights. Consider that there is a €1 EUR($1.02 USD) tourist charge.

You can visit their website to check their availability online, email them at info@albergosacromonte.it or call at +39 0163 54254.

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The hotel, Albergo Sacro Monte di Varallo

Fun things to do in Varallo

Head down to the town of Varallo and visit the beautiful church of Santa Maria delle Grazie and admire the 16th-century frescoes of Gaudenzio Ferrari. This is one of the main artists who worked on the chapels of the Sacro Monte.

If you have time, explore the local artistic treasures in the Pinacoteca museum. Tickets cost €10 EUR($10.05 USD) and they are open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10.30 – 12.30 and 14.30 – 18.00. The last entrance is at 17.00 PM. Here you can see more works from Gaudenzio Ferrari and other jewels from the Middle Ages to the 18th century.

Varallo is located in the wooded hills of the Sesia Valley to the west of Lake Orta. From the main town, you can see the lake running through, and even take a dip in its shallow end. The water is fresh and super clear!

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Lake Orta

Best time to visit the Sacro Monte di Varallo

In the winter, you can admire these beautiful chapels next to the snowy Alps, and in the summer you can enjoy the lush green landscape. Since the chapels require walking outdoors, we’d recommend going from spring to fall and avoiding winter especially if you aren’t used to the cold weather that blesses the mountains in the Piemonte region.

Personally, we love the snow and would run at the chance to return to this spot in the colder months, but that may not be everyone’s cup of tea.

What to bring on your pilgrimmage

The good thing about this location is that you don’t need to worry about packing food or water since there are many fountains, with potable water, to refill your reusable bottle, as well as Elisabetta’s caffè and restroom.

If you choose to visit inside the Basilica, which we highly recommend that you do, remember that it’s respectful to cover your shoulders and wear clothes that go down about knee-length. Since it can be very hot in the summer, consider bringing a light shall for your shoulders.

Packing a backpack and comfortable walking shoes are recommended to walk on the cobblestones and pebbles. Think also about bringing bug spray…those mosquitoes can smell blood!

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Pathway at the Sacro Monte di Varallo

Our tips for exploring the Sacro Monte di Varallo

  • Choose your accommodation on the Sacro Monte to live the full experience of sleeping in a historic complex above the artistic treasures of the chapels. Just note that there is no air conditioning inside the rooms, there are Christian symbols (if this might disturb you, you may want to reconsider the accommodation).
  • Visit the town of Varallo below the Sacro Monte and try some local Piemontese delicacies. There are many restaurants, caffès and bars.
  • Download My Cicero app to help plan your return trip. It’s worth also checking out the info point mentioned earlier.
  • Plan your trip for a weekend. A longer stay might feel too long.
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Sacro Monte di Varallo chapels complex

Would you do this pilgrimmage to the Sacro Monte di Varallo? Have you done a pilgrimmage anywhere else in Italy to other Sacri Monti?

Tell us in the comments!

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