In the sacred enclave of Manikarnika Ghat in Varanasi, life’s final exhale meets the eternal dance of cremation. Every day, under the open sky, souls bid farewell, transcending into the next chapter with the sacred river as the silent witness to their metamorphosis. In the raw authenticity of this ritual, Manikarnika Ghat becomes more than a place. It’s a sanctuary where spirituality intertwines with the tangible, echoing the profound essence of life and death in Varanasi’s timeless embrace.
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What is Manikarnika Ghat?
Manikarnika Ghat is one of the oldest ghats situated along the western bank of the Ganges River in Varanasi, India.
Varanasi is lined with over 80 ghats along the Ganges. When it comes to cremation rituals, however, there are only two places where this happens: Manikarnika Ghat and Harishchandra Ghat. Manikarnika takes a central role as the larger and more significant of the two.
The burning Ghat of Manikarnika holds historical and cultural significance, dating back to ancient times. The ghat is named after the goddess Manikarnika, who is believed to have a sacred well at the site. The complex includes multiple platforms for cremation, where Hindu funeral rites are performed.
Historical Significance
Manikarnika Ghat is associated with various legends and is considered a prime spot for attaining moksha, or liberation from the cycle of reincarnation. According to Hindu mythology, it is believed that Lord Shiva meditated here. Consequently, the ghat is considered to be a place where the divine and mortal worlds intersect. Pilgrims and devotees from across India come to Varanasi to perform the last rites of their loved ones at Manikarnika Ghat, seeking spiritual elevation.
Sacred Perspective
For families choosing Manikarnika Ghat for the cremation of their relatives, it holds profound spiritual significance. The act of cremation at this ghat is a sacred ritual, symbolizing the soul’s journey towards liberation. According to Hindu culture, the Ganges River, flowing beside the ghat, has purifying properties. Furthermore, immersing the ashes in its waters is thought to facilitate the departed soul’s transition to the afterlife.
The choice of Manikarnika Ghat is often guided by the spiritual belief that the soul attains a higher state of existence by being cremated in Varanasi, particularly at this sacred ghat. Families may find comfort in the idea that their departed loved ones are taking part in a spiritual journey, breaking free from the cycle of rebirth.
The ongoing cremations at Manikarnika Ghat aren’t just about doing something physical. In fact, they carry a profound meaning, showing how life is temporary, and the soul is searching for something beyond.
Visiting Varanasi? Read also: Best things to do in Varanasi
The Reverent Cremation Ritual at Manikarnika Ghat
The cremation ritual at Manikarnika Ghat is a sacred and deeply spiritual practice where the deceased are cremated in accordance with Hindu customs. In Hindu beliefs, Varanasi is a special and cleansing location for this last ritual.
The city, in fact, is commonly known as “Kashi,” the City of Light. Furthermore, in Hindu tradition, cremation in Varanasi plays a crucial role in breaking the cycle of rebirth.
This process is thought to aid the soul in achieving moksha, or spiritual liberation. Additionally, it is believed that by being cremated at Manikarnika Ghat, one attains liberation from the cycle of death and rebirth.
The Journey to Varanasi
When a person passes away, a complex series of events is set in motion. In cases of sudden demise, orchestrating this sacred journey becomes an intricate task. The departed embark on a poignant pilgrimage—a solemn car journey through the city—culminating in the sacred grounds for their final rites.
It’s also not rare that some individuals, cognizant of their final months, opt to spend this significant period in Varanasi. They are allowed to stay in dedicated structures designed to accommodate those seeking the spiritual embrace of the sacred city during their last chapter of life.
Preparation for the Ritual
The body of the deceased is prepared for cremation by the family members. The body is respectfully anointed with oil and then draped in either white or orange cloth. White symbolizes purity and spiritual awakening, commonly chosen in Hindu traditions. Orange, considered auspicious, is preferred by followers of specific sects or gurus and individuals associated with certain spiritual orders.
Then the body is often placed on a bamboo stretcher, and it’s typically adorned with marigolds as symbols of purity and devotion. The processions to Manikarnika Ghat are solemn affairs, accompanied by family members, friends, and sometimes religious figures.
The body is carried through the narrow lanes of Varanasi, often in a procession, with mourners chanting prayers or hymns. The atmosphere is filled with a mix of grief and spirituality. Notably, a great spot to witness this passage is the Blue Lassi shop and the streets nearby. This is an obliged route for most of the processions.
The Cremation Ritual
Upon reaching the ghat, the solemn process begins with a series of ritualistic steps. Firstly, the eldest son, symbolizing the continuity of family and tradition, has his head shaved by a priest. This ritual signifies a symbolic separation from the material world.
As a final ritual of purification, the body is immersed in the Ganges for the last time before proceeding to the cremation ceremony. In a sacred act of reverence, family members pour water over the body. This is a symbolic purification that extends to pouring water into the mouth of the departed.
As the family patiently waits, the funeral pyre takes shape. For higher caste families, the pyre may include Sandalwood, chosen not just for its aromatic properties but also for its ability to suppress the smell of the burning body.
Once the pyre is meticulously constructed, the body is stripped down to a simple white sheet and placed on top, surrounded by logs. Ghee, a symbol of purity in Hindu rituals, is reverently placed on the body to facilitate a quicker combustion.
As the eldest son or another male relative lights the funeral pyre, the flames usher in the beginning of a profound transformation. The pyres at Manikarnika Ghat burn continuously, creating an atmosphere where multiple cremations unfold simultaneously.
From the symbolic head-shaving to lighting the pyre, the rituals at Manikarnika Ghat reflect the cultural and spiritual depth of cremation. The entire process can take anywhere from six hours to a full day.
How to get to Manikarnika Ghat
Manikarnika Ghat is located in Varanasi, on the western bank of the Ganges River. It is one of the 88 Ghats of Varanasi, and it is situated between the Dasaswamedh Ghat and the Scindia Ghat.
To reach it, you can either walk or take a boat along the Ganges River. Here is the exact location of Manikarnika Ghat:
Visit Manikarnika Ghat as a Tourist
Visiting Manikarnika Ghat as a tourist can be a profound and eye-opening experience, but it’s essential to approach it with sensitivity and an understanding of the cultural context. Witnessing cremation rituals and the solemn atmosphere at the ghat can evoke a range of emotions and responses.
The stark contrast between the Western perspective on death and the Hindu cremation practices can indeed cause cultural shock. The open-air cremations and the intimate nature of the ceremonies may be vastly different from the more private and somber funeral traditions in many Western cultures.
For some tourists, the experience may be emotionally overwhelming. The sight of grieving families, the scent of incense, and the visual aspects of the cremation process can stir deep emotions. Therefore, it’s not uncommon for visitors to feel a sense of melancholy, reflection, or even disorientation.
Visitors often find themselves in a state of personal reflection and contemplation after witnessing the rituals at Manikarnika Ghat. As a result, the experience can prompt deep thoughts about life, death, and the cultural diversity that exists in the world.
Cultural Sensitivity
Respecting the solemnity of the rituals and maintaining a quiet, contemplative demeanor is crucial. While it’s acceptable for tourists to observe the cremation rituals even from up close, it’s important to refrain from taking photographs. In addition, it’s also important not to engage in any behavior that may be perceived as intrusive or disrespectful.
Photography at Manikarnika Ghat
Photography is typically not allowed in the immediate area where cremations take place at Manikarnika Ghat. This is due to several reasons, rooted in cultural, religious, and ethical considerations:
Respect for the Deceased and Families: The cremation process is a deeply personal and sacred ritual for families saying goodbye to their loved ones. Photography can be intrusive and may compromise the privacy and dignity of the deceased and their grieving families.
Cultural and Religious Sensitivity: Hindu funeral rites involve specific rituals, and the sight of a camera can be disruptive to the solemnity of these proceedings. There’s a deep respect for the spiritual nature of the cremation, and photography is seen as incompatible with the spiritual focus required during this time.
Preservation of Dignity: Allowing photography in the immediate cremation area may be perceived as disrespectful to the deceased. Hindu beliefs emphasize the importance of maintaining the dignity of the departed soul during the transition from this life.
Prevention of Exploitation: Photography has the potential to sensationalize or exploit sensitive moments. Restricting photography helps prevent the dissemination of images that may not align with the cultural or religious context.
Minimization of Disturbances: Families and attendees need a peaceful and focused environment during the cremation rituals. The presence of cameras, flashes, and clicking sounds can create disturbances and disrupt the intended atmosphere of reverence.
At the same time, photography is often tolerated from a distance, such as from a boat on the Ganges River. From this vantage point, you can capture the essence of the ghat and the activities along the river while maintaining a respectful distance from the funeral proceedings.
Manikarnika Ghat’s Cremation Logistics
The journey of wood for cremations at Manikarnika Ghat encompasses an intricate process to meet the daily demand. Local woodcutters and suppliers from Indian forests harvest the wood, which weighs between 300 to 500 kilograms per cremation. It is then transported to the ghat using various means, such as carts or vehicles.
However, the process is not without its challenges. Due to the scarcity of wood, there is often a need to source it from more distant forests, raising environmental concerns. With a continuous demand for funeral pyres, ensuring an adequate supply of wood becomes an ongoing challenge.
At the ghat, they carefully process the wood, making sure it meets the specific needs for the funeral pyres. This includes sorting and preparing the wood with great attention to detail.
Adjacent to the ghat lies a dedicated storage area that maintains an inventory of processed wood, guaranteeing a continuous and reliable supply. The daily consumption varies, contingent on the number of cremations, necessitating efficient logistics.
Environmental considerations prompt efforts to incorporate sustainable practices in wood usage, exploring alternatives and more efficient combustion methods. This entire process delicately balances the fulfillment of cultural traditions, responsible resource management, and a profound respect for the spiritual significance of the cremation rituals at Manikarnika Ghat.
The Cost of a Cremation at Manikarnika Ghat
The cost of a cremation ritual at Manikarnika is highly related to the cost of wood. During the Covid-19 pandemic, when deaths spiked up, the cost of a cremation ritual increased by 10 times! Wood is a scarce resource in Varanasi, and that’s why the price of a ritual highly depends on the quality and quantity of firewood.
Family members also need to take into account other essentials needed for the ritual like ghee, incense sticks, and flowers. Therefore, the overall cost of a funeral at Manikarnika varies a lot. A complete cremation ritual can range from 2000 INR ($25 USD) to over 10.000 INR ($110 USD).
For the poorer families, even the more modest ritual could exceed their budget. A cheaper alternative is the electric crematorium, located just next to Manikarnika. Here a ritual costs about 500 INR ($6 USD).
Ratneshwar Mahadev Temple at Manikarnika Ghat
In the ancient city of Varanasi, the Ratneshwar Mahadev Temple stands out near Manikarnika Ghat. Local stories say a servant of Raja Man Singh built it to honor his mother, Ratna Bai. Filled with pride upon its completion, he declared that he had repaid his debt to his mother.
In a surprising turn, the temple started leaning backward (north-west), seemingly expressing that one can never fully repay their debt to their mother. As a result, the main part of the temple stays underwater in the Ganga for most of the year.
Comparisons with the renowned Leaning Tower of Pisa in Italy add another layer of fascination to the Ratneshwar Mahadev Temple. Surpassing the tilt of the iconic Italian monument, the Ratneshwar Temple leans at an impressive 9 degrees, while the Leaning Tower of Pisa stands at 4 degrees. Despite this remarkable feat, the Leaning Temple of Varanasi often resides in relative anonymity within India.
Best Tips for Visiting Manikarnika Ghat
If you’re planning to visit Manikarnika Ghat in Varanasi, it’s important to be respectful and considerate because it’s a place where cremations happen. Here are some tips:
Be Respectful: Act calmly and respectfully. Understand that Manikarnika Ghat is a place of religious significance and mourning.
No Photos During Ceremonies: Avoid taking pictures, especially during cremation ceremonies. It’s a private and emotional time for families. We’ve been told some locals have thrown other tourists’ cameras in the Ganges for taking photos during cremation rituals.
Dress Modestly: Wear modest and simple clothes. This shows respect for the religious and cultural norms of the area. In India, this is especially important for women.
Watch Quietly: If you want to watch the rituals, do so quietly from a distance. Avoid unnecessary conversation and maintain a low profile.
Consider a Guided Tour: A local guide can help you understand the customs and traditions. They can guide you on how to behave respectfully. Follow any rules or guidelines provided by your guide. Different communities have different practices.
Keep Clean: Due to the nature of the site, prioritize personal hygiene. Wash your hands thoroughly after visiting the ghat.
Learn Before You Go: Educate yourself about the cultural and religious significance of Manikarnika Ghat before your visit. Understanding the context will enhance your experience and demonstrate respect.
The key is to be considerate of the mourning families and to learn about and respect the cultural and religious practices of the area.
