Imagine this…you’re hiking through a forest with lush cedars and, off into the distance, you start to hear the trickles of water from the multi-tiered waterfall…and that’s when you know you’re close. On your trip to Madeira, levada trails will give you that “in awe” vibe once you reach the highlight of the waterfall and the Levada dos Cedros is no exception.
This complete guide will walk you through one of the Island’s most peaceful trails.
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What is Levada dos Cedros
Up until recently, the Levada dos Cedros hasn’t been a popular hiking destination in Madeira. In wintertime, this levada is often blanketed in thick clouds and its position is somewhat off the beaten track compared to other destinations on the island, which is why some may not go to the lengths of visiting it. (but should!)
Surely but slowly, this trail is quickly gaining momentum…and for good reason.
In fact, Levada dos Cedros is located next to the sought-after Fanal Forest, on the north-western side of the island, known for its enchanted-looking ancient trees. Since its early beginnings in the 17th century, Levada dos Cedros is among the oldest levadas in Madeira. It originates in the springs of Lombo do Cedro and it’s characterized by flourishing vegetation, a picturesque wooden bridge and several impressive waterfalls along the path.
What hiking options are there?
This spectacular trail starts at two separate points: Curral Falso or in Fanal Forest itself. This also mean you can hit the trail in different ways, or combining it with other attractions nearby. Below we have listed the 2 most popular options, plus a bonus one!
OPTION 1: If you start at Curral Falso, the trail has no elevation difference until you reach the main waterfall. Curral Falso is essentially a stop along the E.R 209 road (on the way from Fanal Forest to Ribeira da Janela).
OPTION 2: Starting from (or to) Fanal Forest requires more effort than starting at Curral Falso since it involves either climbing or descending a 300m elevation difference. Note that there is a staircase at the end of the trail which connects Levada dos Cedros (on the lower level) to Fanal Forest (on the upper level).
In option 2 you can either backtrack after visiting Fanal or hit the trail in a loop. You would, firstly, start at Curral Falso, secondly, walk through the levada then, thirdly, reach and walk through Fanal Forest and, finally, head back to the E.R. 209 road.
🥾 FROM CURRAL FALSO / TREK INFO:
Difficulty: easy
Length: 5.8km one way (11.6km total)
Duration: 3h
Elevation difference: negligible
🥾 LOOP INCLUDING FANAL FOREST/ TREK INFO:
Difficulty: moderate
Length: 11km total
Duration: 3.5h
Elevation difference: +300m; -300m
A DIFFERENT ROUTE: How about combining Levada dos Cedros with the Fanal Forest and the PR15 Vereda da Ribeira da Janela? To do so, you just have to park your car in Ribeira da Janela (or reach it by bus) and take a taxi to Fanal. From there, you can visit the Fanal Forest, walk the entire Levada dos Cedros and finally hike down the Vereda da Ribeira da Janela to get back to your car. This way, you get to explore three different places and trails all at once.
How to Get to Levada dos Cedros
BY PUBLIC TRANSPORT: As for many places located inland and relatively far from Funchal, Levada dos Cedros is only accessible by car. If you’re not a fan of driving, you can take bus n°139 from Rodoeste, which stops in Porto Moniz. From here, find a taxi to either Curral Falso or Fanal (which we’d recommend in this case).
BY CAR: Levada dos Cedros is about 53km from Funchal. The fastest way is through Sao Vicente-Seixal, however we’d recommend taking the internal road, arguably Madeira’s most scenic one.
The trail starts at the regional road 209, either near Curral Falso or near Fanal Forest. Check out both starting points below:
From Curral Falso (840m)
From Fanal Forest (1130m)
Both places feature small parking lots on the side of the road, which are free of charge.
We opted for starting this Levada at Curral Falso and backtracking it for two reasons: 1, the way up the staircase doesn’t add much to your visit, it’s tiring and we could save those energies for other treks on the island.
And 2, if you decide to do this levada in a loop trail and go all the way up to Fanal, you’ll need to walk for over 4km on the paved ER209, which isn’t particularly charming or safe as there are no walkways.
TIP: To avoid doing this Levada both ways, you could team up with other travellers so to have 2 cars and leave 1 car at each end of the trail. Or you can consider hitching a lift. Hitchhiking is not for everyone, of course, do it if you’re comfortable.
Our experience at Levada dos Cedros
We only had one car so we started the trail at Curral Falso and decided to go from there, backtracking on the way back. Doing Levada dos Cedros this way is a great option if you want to explore and be outdoors while also recovering from a big hike since it’s flat for the entire length of the trail.
Keep in mind that the beginning of the trail is located on the left side of the road if you’re driving in the direction of Ribeira da Janela from Fanal.
As for most other levadas in Madeira, the trail is well marked and easy to find. A large board showcases all the details of the hike (the height difference you’ll see refers to the staircase at the end – the one that leads to Fanal). Also, when the sign indicates 7.7km, it’s referring to the total hike to Fanal, while the actual Levada dos Cedros from Curral Falso to the final waterfall is only 5.8km.
Green, green and more green!
Madeira, as an island, is known for its rich vegetation, however, Levada dos Cedros is somehow particularly greener and lusher than other levadas. The levada channel isn’t big and its path is generally quite narrow, but the walk is very enjoyable all the way through.
Unlike other levadas, like Levada do Caldeirao Verde, which have many views along its path, Levada dos Cedros is fully immersed in the forest and it only opens up at one viewpoint. This doesn’t take away much from its beauty, as the trail is gloriously winding along the path of the Levada.
Along the way, you’ll encounter some amazing local plant species, such as Madeira laurels and other endemic plants. These majestic trees dominate the landscapes of Levada dos Cedros, sometimes creating arch-like structures with their intertwining branches.
After about 4km from the beginning of the trail, you’ll reach one of the highlights of Levada dos Cedros: a relatively small but striking wooden bridge that crosses a towering waterfall.
The exposed parts of the trail are protected by a wire fence, and the bridge is actually more solid (and wider) than it looks, so don’t worry too much about it if you are afraid of heights.
Shortly after the bridge, you’ll notice a small path on the right side of the trail, which leads to the only true lookout points of this levada walk. It’s just a few meters from the main trail, and it’s a great spot to have a snack or drink.
When exploring the viewpoint, there’s a huge rock you can climb for an even better view.
Keep walking to get to the end of the trail where you’ll find the main waterfall of Levada dos Cedros. This beautiful drop is nestled in the dense forest.
The waterfall itself is not as impressive as others in Madeira, like the one at Caldeirao Verde, but it’s still a beautiful treat at the end of a long hike.
Best time to visit
Levada dos Cedros can be visited all year long. BUT if you’re trying to figure out when you might prefer to go based on the seasons take this into account: you can expect the trail to be quite muddy in the winter months, and in the summer you’ll notice the water from the waterfalls is less abundant.
Our tip for backpackers is to save this levada for a cloudy day, because the trail isn’t really about the views it’s about the peaceful walk. Levada dos Cedros is still not a super popular trail, like other levadas, veredas or hikes like the famous Pico di Arieiro to Pico Ruivo, so you’ll notice it won’t be packed with tourists.
Rule of thumb for levadas in Madeira…the days after heavy rainfall are ideal if you like seeing waterfalls in all their glory!
Entrance fee
There is no entrance fee in Levada dos Cedros, and there is no parking fee either. So you really don’t have a reason to not check it out…
What to pack for Levada dos Cedros
- There are no caffè or restaurant stops on the levada trail so bring some snacks and water
- A light rain jacket
- Waterproof shoes that you don’t mind getting dirt and mud on
- Bug repellant
Backpackers, we hope you consider Levada dos Cedros on your levada to-do list during your trip to Madeira.
Tell us if you hit it up and have other tips to share in the comment section below!
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