In the shadow of Montenegro’s rugged mountains lies Kapetanovo Jezero, a secluded lake that feels almost forgotten by time. Surrounded by rugged nature and dramatic peaks, Kapetanovo Jezero feels like a secret waiting to be discovered. With its tranquil waters and untouched beauty, it offers a rare escape into another world. Ready to uncover this hidden gem? Head there and let its magic captivate you.
About Kapetanovo Jezero
Imagine a wild mountain lake where time seems to have frozen decades ago. Life here moves slowly, following the rhythm of the sun, the needs of the sheep, and the simple daily tasks.
This is Kapetanovo Jezero (Captain’s Lake), a high-altitude gem tucked away in the Moračke planine, near the town of Nikšić. Sitting at 1,678 meters, the lake is surrounded by rugged peaks, creating a raw, untouched landscape. Higher up, you’ll find Manito Jezero, a smaller, more secluded lake perched at 1,775 meters.
Unlike other places like Hrid Lake, Kapetanovo Jezero serves as the main water source for the flocks of sheep and herds of cows that roam the area. Every morning — and several times throughout the day — the animals make their way to the lake to drink. Because of this, it’s not exactly the perfect spot for a swim.
Instead, Kapetanovo Jezero is ideal for those seeking a peaceful, off-the-beaten-path mountain escape in the heart of Montenegro.
How to Get to Kapetanovo Jezero
Getting to Kapetanovo Jezero used to be a real off-road adventure — and depending on where you’re coming from, it still can be.
Get to Kapetanovo Jezero from Nikšić
If you’re starting from Nikšić, good news: the old mountain road has recently been paved all the way to the lake. It’s still a narrow, one-lane road that twists through the mountains, but now it’s smooth and easy to drive.
You won’t need a 4×4 anymore — any regular car will do. The drive is 41 km long takes about 1.5 hours and offers some classic Montenegrin mountain scenery along the way.
To make sure you find the right way, do not trust Google Maps right away. Instead, head to Liverovici Lake and turn towards the town of Oblatno. Right after you will see a big quarry. Do not access it, a bypass road has been built and you will just drive around it.
From there, continue following the directions towards Kapetanovo Jezero on Google Maps and never leave the paved road!
Get to Kapetanovo Jezero by Public Transport
There’s no public transport anywhere near Kapetanovo Jezero, so you’ll need your own wheels. And even though the drive is much easier now, the area still feels remote and untouched — perfect if you’re chasing that off-the-beaten-path mountain adventure.
Get to Kapetanovo Jezero from other places
If you’re coming from anywhere else (like Podgorica, Žabljak, or Kolašin) do not blindly follow Google Maps. In fact, Google will happily send you down some wild off-road trails. We’re talking rocky, narrow tracks that are barely passable even with a proper 4×4. Unless you’re looking for an accidental off-roading expedition, it’s way safer to route yourself through Nikšić and Lukavica village.
That said, on our way to the lake, we decided to put our Jeep to the test and take on the off-road trails anyway! We were coming from Žabljak, and it seemed like the right thing to do. Hitting the dirt roads turned out to be way more scenic — and way more fun — even though it took us much longer to get there.
We passed through the Krnovo Wind Farm and cruised through some incredibly remote valleys, without a single soul in sight. It felt like we had the entire wild heart of Montenegro all to ourselves.
We rolled into Kapetanovo Jezero just in time for dinner. The sun had already dipped behind the mountains about half an hour earlier, but the lake still welcomed us with a stunning, otherworldly glow. Even in the fading light, it was absolutely breathtaking.
What to Expect while Visiting Kapetanovo Jezero
Kapetanovo Jezero sits at around 1,670 meters above sea level, cradled in a rocky basin high in the Montenegrin mountains. It’s not a massive lake — you can easily walk around it in about 30–40 minutes — but what it lacks in size, it makes up for in raw beauty.
On clear days, the water takes on an incredible turquoise hue, framed by rugged grey cliffs and grassy slopes. The whole scene feels almost untouched, like you’ve stumbled into a forgotten corner of the world.
The atmosphere at Kapetanovo Jezero is pure mountain magic: remote, peaceful, and incredibly quiet. You might spot a handful of other travelers if you visit in summer, but most of the time, it’ll feel like you have the entire place to yourself. There’s no noise, no crowds — just the sound of the wind, the distant clinking of cowbells, and maybe a shepherd whistling somewhere across the hills.
The facilities around the lake are minimal at best. There’s no electricity for travelers — the businesses rely on solar power, but it’s not much more than enough to keep lights on or power a fridge. And if you’re camping or staying nearby, be warned: the showers are far from glamorous. They’re functional, but the word “nice” definitely doesn’t apply. Additionally, there’s no data internet or Wi-Fi, so be prepared to disconnect and enjoy the natural surroundings without the usual digital distractions.
Despite the lack of modern conveniences, Kapetanovo Jezero is a perfect escape for those who crave peace, isolation, and a real taste of mountain life. You’ll be far from crowds, surrounded only by nature, and it’s incredibly easy to feel like you have the entire lake to yourself.
Where to Stay at Kapetanovo Jezero
If you’re planning to spend the night at Kapetanovo Jezero — and you definitely should — be aware that accommodation is very limited. There are only two places to stay, both offering simple wooden huts with single or double beds, no electricity, and very basic facilities.
Kapetanovo Jezero, Mountain Cottage Captain’s Lake
Mountain Cottage Captain’s Lake offers basic but authentic accommodation near Kapetanovo Jezero. Run by Ana and Zoran, the place is simple — no electricity, no running water, and shared cold showers.
However, the warm hospitality, traditional home-cooked meals, and the stunning mountain setting make it a memorable experience.
Rural Household MINIĆ – Kapetanovo Jezero
This accommodation is run by Dragan and his wife, Zorica, who also happens to be the chef at the Eko Koliba restaurant. The A-frame cabins are clean, comfortable, and charming — though the same can’t be said for the toilets and showers.
Neither of them spoke a word of English, but they were incredibly welcoming and kind. There’s even no menu here, but the food Zorica cooked was absolutely exceptional.
Important: As of August 2024, the huts are no longer lakefront as shown on booking sites. Due to some legal issues, they’ve been moved further down the road.
My Dream Chalet
A third amazing place to stay at is “My Dream Chalet“, located 4km down the road, near the Church of St. Elijah, Lukavica. This mountain chalet is a little higher end, but serves as a great stop for travellers in the area.
Wild Camping at Kapetanovo Jezero
Although we chose not to wild camp at Kapetanovo Jezero, we saw several travelers setting up their tents right along the lake’s shores without any issues. There are two spots that are particularly well-suited for this:
Camping Spot 1 (The Horn)
Camping Spot 2 (The Opposite Side)
You can find these camping spots in the map at the end of this blog post.
Eating at the Lake
Food at Kapetanovo Jezero is simple, hearty, and full of soul — the kind of meals that warm you after a day in the mountains. There’s no menu here, just traditional home-cooked dishes made with local ingredients.
For breakfast we were served priganica, crispy fried dough paired with local cheese, homemade jam, and wild honey. One evening, we had stuffed peppers filled with meat and rice, and another time, slow-cooked meat with potatoes, rich and satisfying. The famous pita, a flaky pastry stuffed with cheese or potatoes, quickly became a favorite too.
Every meal is shared with a glass (or two) of rakija, the strong local brandy that’s a tradition in itself.
WHERE TO EAT?
Both homestays have their own small restaurants, serving food to their guests as well as to passing visitors.
In addition to these restaurants, there’s a third option: Kapetanov KONAK ETNO Restoran. This place is located right on the side of Rural Household MINIĆ, and if offers authentic Montenegrin food at a fair price.
Hiking Manito Jezero
The entire area around Kapetanovo Jezero is just waiting to be explored. One of the easiest and most recommended hikes is the trail to Manito Jezero — a short 1.5 km trek with about 150 meters of elevation gain.
One of the reasons this hike is so stunning is that it gradually ascends, offering continuous panoramic views of the lake and the valley below. As you climb, you’ll witness how the lake sits elevated above the valley, providing a unique perspective of the surrounding landscape.
The hike reveals the full beauty of the area, with the shimmering lake framed by the rugged terrain. For the best light and atmosphere, it’s highly recommended to tackle this trail at sunrise or sunset, when the soft, golden hues transform the entire scene, casting long shadows and highlighting the natural contours of the land.
We hiked at sunset and it only took us 30 minutes to reach the top.
During the day, sheep roam the upper valleys and often come to drink at Manito Jezero, leaving the water filled with droppings. As a result, the lake isn’t suitable for drinking or swimming, so it’s best to bring your own water if you plan to hike there.
However, its raw beauty is unmatched, with the wild, untouched landscape making it one of the highlights of the area.
Looking for more hikes in ther area? Consider hiking Nikolin Vrh, which offers even more oustanding views over Kapetanovo Jezero. There are almost no visible trails, so downloading a gpx track is recommended.
Timeless Traditions in the Montenegrin Wilderness
ife at Kapetanovo Jezero follows the slow, timeless rhythm of the mountains. During the day, herds of sheep roam freely across the high valleys, watched over by small, lively puppies — the future sheepdogs being raised to guard and guide them. Their playful energy fills the meadows, a glimpse of the working life that awaits them.
As the sun sets and the sky turns golden, the scene softens even more. Women gather to milk the cows in the open fields, while the animals slowly make their way back home. It’s a peaceful, authentic moment — a reminder of a way of life that remains deeply connected to nature, simple yet profoundly beautiful.
Internet at Kapetanovo Jezero
As we mentioned, there’s no data coverage or Wi-Fi available anywhere at Kapetanovo Jezero. However, we urgently needed to contact a friend who was joining us the next day, so we asked the locals for help. A Russian tourist staying there kindly translated for us, making it possible to get in touch.
The locals pointed to the road we had come from, explaining that, from Kapetanovo Jezero, you need to drive down towards the church. Keep going for about 1 km until you spot three trees lining the road. Between the second and third tree, on the right side, you’ll see car tracks leading into the field. Park there, and just like that, your phone will have internet access.
It worked for both our local Telekom tourist SIM and a foreign one, so it’s a reliable spot to get connected.
Church of St. Elijah (Crkva Sv. Ilije), Lukavica
The Church of St. Elijah (Crkva Sv. Ilije) in Lukavica is a small, serene Serbian Orthodox church nestled in the beautiful Montenegrin mountains. It’s located in the Lukavica plateau, an area known for its untouched nature and peaceful vibes.
The church has a simple charm, quietly reflecting the area’s rich cultural roots. Whether you’re passing by or taking a moment to pause, it blends seamlessly into the rugged landscape, offering a peaceful connection to the past.
Useful Map & Resources
Below you can find a map with all the places we mentioned above. Enjoy your stay at Kapetanovo Jezero!