The Jaisalmer Fort is an architectural gem in Rajasthan. With its yellowish sandstone and ornate bas-reliefs, it’s no question why Jaisalmer is nicknamed the Golden City. Our trip through the fort’s walls and visiting the haveli was incredible. We’re going to take you through our journey in hopes that it will inspire you to visit.
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What is Jaisalmer like?
Located deep in the Thar desert, Jaisalmer is a relatively small town that was founded in 1156 by the 12th-century ruler Rawal Jaisal, and is often referred to as “the Golden City.” Its main highlight, the Jaisalmer Fort, dominates the surrounding desertic flatlands and offers a great view from anywhere in the city. The city is known for being the dryest place in India, as it sees almost no rain for the entire year.
Jaisalmer’s economy depends a lot on tourism, but the town is also famous for its jewelry and its textiles. The streets of the city outside the Fort are filled with haveli and little shops where local craftsmen work metals and semi-precious stones to create little masterpieces. Silver is amongst the most used metals, but you will be able to find gold jewels and more.
The local population is a fascinating mix of Muslims (about 30%) and Hindus (70%), many of which live in nearby villages and come to Jaisalmer to shop or work. Jaisalmer is not far from the border with Pakistan, which is why such a high percentage of Muslim people live here. Most women from these rural areas (both Muslim and Hindu) cover their faces while walking on public streets, while those living in the city follow less strict rules and are more open to communicating with foreigners.
Cows are everywhere in Jaisalmer and they share the streets with the local population in a fascinating way. It’s common to find cows around the streets in many parts of India, but here even more so!
On a less fascinating note, pollution is a huge problem in Jaisalmer. The streets are dirty, and pretty much everywhere you look you can find garbage, from small piles to huge landfills created on the sides of the streets. Also, the sewage system is close to non-existing and it’s common to see wastewater flowing in the open air on the sides of the streets.
How to get to Jaisalmer?
Jaisalmer is located in the state of Rajasthan, in the heart of the Thar desert, and not far from the western Indian border. The city is in fact just 80km away from Pakistan, while it’s almost 500km away from Rajasthan’s capital city Jaipur.
You might that its location might make a city like Jaisalmer difficult to reach, but luckily this isn’t the case. Even though it’s small and it lies in the desert, Jaisalmer has a railway station and even an airport. This means you can reach it any way you like.
BY BUS: Check redBus to find buses from and to Jaisalmer. The nearest cities are Bikaner and Jodhpur, which are about 5 and 4 hours away. To cover the distance from Jodhpur to Jaisalmer, a bus ticket will cost you about 400 INR ($5 USD).
BY TRAIN: Jaisalmer can be reached from the same cities of Bikaner and Jodhpur also by train. From Bikaner, a ticket costs around 600 INR ($7.5 USD) for an AC3 Class and 240 INR ($3 USD) for a Sleeper class. Similar prices apply to Jodhpur. Check IRCTC for all train options.
BY FLIGHT: SpiceJet flies daily to and from Delhi. Tickets cost anywhere between $50 USD and $100 USD, depending on the season.
Best things to do in Jaisalmer
Jaisalmer has a rich culture and glorious past, therefore there are many interesting things to see and do in and outside the city. From the Golden Fort to the stunning Jaisalmer Haveli, all the way to the desert safari tours. Check out the following map to have a better idea of what is there to do and where is everything!
🗺️ HOW TO USE THIS MAP: Click the top left icon to get more info about this map. Use the star icon next to the title to save it in your Google Maps account. To view it on your phone or computer, open Google Maps, click the menu button, then go to “your places“, tap on “maps” and you will see this map on your list.
The Jaisalmer Fort (Golden Fort)
Also referred to as Sonar Qila (Golden Fort), the Jaisalmer Fort is the main landmark of Jaisalmer. 99 bastions surround and protect the narrow streets of the fort, which is particularly noticeable for being the last living fort in India. Unlike all the other forts which have been entirely turned into tourist attractions, in fact, people still go about their daily lives inside the Fort and visitors are free to roam its streets too.
In Jaisalmer, only the upper and central part of the fort – which includes the Royal Palace – was turned into a museum and it can be accessed after paying a fee of 600 INR ($7.27 USD) upon arrival. The Fort can be visited all days of the week from 9 AM to 6 PM. We highly recommend doing so, as the fort is beautiful and the view from its highest rooftop is like no others.
Can you stay in the Jaisalmer Fort?
While visiting the Jaisalmer Fort is highly recommended, sleeping inside the fort is much less so. As Jaisalmer gained popularity, many hotels opened up inside the Fort and with them, water consumption drastically increased. Since the sewage system is close to non-existing inside the fort, all this water ends up altering the already delicate equilibrium that keeps the Fort together. The alarm was raised years ago by conservationists of this accelerating degradation of the Fort.
Jaisalmer Haveli
Ever seen a “haveli”? A haveli is a multistorey traditional Indian mansion, characterized by exquisite architecture and precious details.
The biggest and most decorated haveli in Jaisalmer is Patwon-ki-Haveli, built by five brothers in the 19th century. This haveli is simply stunning, and you will be amazed by its intricated artwork and complex structure. Historic havelis were decorated with hand-carved stone blocks, often depicting Indian gods, powerful animals and other meaningful figures.
Most people only visit Patwon-ki-Haveli, but the list of haveli to visit in Jaisalmer is actually quite long. We marked all the important havelis on our map, so make sure to save it before you visit.
The city outside the Jaisalmer Fort
Jaisalmer is a vibrant and colourful city. It’s loud, the streets are narrow and busy, and cows merge with locals in what appears to be organized chaos. The buildings are an interesting mix of modest houses and rich haveli, and it’s not rare to see abandoned houses next to beautifully maintained ones.
Visit the market, the havelis and the little boutiques of jewelry and textiles. We highly recommend spending at least half a day exploring these little streets.
On our map, we marked the part of the city outside the fort that is worth checking out, the local market as well as the jewelry-making district.
Things to do near Jaisalmer
Despite being located in the middle of a desertic area, there are actually many things you can do and see around Jaisalmer. Here are some of them but make sure to check out our detailed map for more.
• Gadisar Lake
This artificial lake was created in the 14th century as a water reservoir to provide the town with a supply of fresh water. The basin collects the most amount of rainfall during the year and is used during the dryer months for all purposes.
The lake is enriched by shrines and temples, some of which are the most recognizable landmarks of Jaisalmer. You can visit the lake at any time of the day, and it is possible to rent little boats and row around the lake. At sunset, people gather on the eastern side of the lake to watch a light show.
• Bada Bagh
Bada Bagh is a cenotaphs complex situated about 6 km out of Jaisalmer. Cenotaphs are sculpted shrines built to commemorate someone buried elsewhere, usually people who died in war or important rulers.
The complex of Bada Bagh – which means big garden – was built to commemorate the rulers of Jaisalmer. Jait Singh II, a successor of Maharawal Jaisal Singh, built a dam and turned the desert land into a green garden, back in the 16th century. His son Lunakaran commissioned the cenotaphs of Bada Bagh, and it kept developing by subsequent rulers for the Bhatti royal family of Jaisalmer.
Entrance costs 300 INR ($3.6 USD) per person for foreigners.
• Go on a desert safari
Although our experience was everything but unforgettable, going on a desert safari is one of the main reasons people visit Jaisalmer for. A desert safari tour usually includes transportation to the desert camp, a camel ride on sand dunes, sunset, a ride back to the camp, dinner, a night show and sleeping under the stars.
Such tours usually cost around 2000 – 3000 INR ($36 USD) per person, depending on the type of tour. The most popular spot is called “Sam“, and it’s the one Indians visit the most. A lesser known one – but still touristy – is called “Khuri”, while so-called “non-touristy tours” are also available and they don’t include the desert camp but offer a wilder type of experience. You can find all of these locations on our Jaisalmer Map.
• Visit the abandoned village of Kuldhara
Kuldhara is an abandoned village dating back to the 13th century, located about 20km from Jaisalmer. It was inhabited by Paliwal Brahmins, and it was once a prosperous town. The legend says the Kuldhara village has been abandoned almost overnight. This is attributed to various causes, ranging from persecution by Salim Singh (a powerful minister of the Jaisalmer state), to draught and a heartquake. The village remained in a state of decay till the 19th century.
Today, a couple of buildings have been rebuilt and restored to give an idea of what the village used to look like.
Where to eat in Jaisalmer
The food scene of Jaisalmer is quite interesting. We’ve tried a few restaurants while there and we overall had good experiences, both for vegetarian and non-vegetarian options.
A good vegetarian restaurant located near the entrance of the Jaisalmer Fort is Killa Corner (4.0☆ on Google), food was good and cheap. Service took forever though, but the place was full of locals so you know it is a good sign.
Another vegetarian – and recently opened – the restaurant is The Roof Lounge (4.9☆ on Google). Although it was empty when we visited it, the food was particularly tasty and not expensive despite the fancy name. We would definitely recommend it.
We also tried Restaurant Romany (4.6☆ on Google) for dinner out of the many great reviews it has. The food was good, but apparently, they increased the prices and dinner here cost way too much for what we had. It’s not worth the price if you ask us.
Located inside the Jaisalmer Fort and also recommended by the lonely planet guide, Desert Boy’s Cafe (4.5☆ on Google) is the place to go to have a Rajasthani thali
Our last recommendation would be Natraj Restaurant (4.4☆ on Google), which is located near the havelis and is appreciated for both the food and the hospitality. This and all the other places mentioned here are included on our map.
Where to sleep in Jaisalmer
As discussed above, it’s recommended not to stay inside the Jaisalmer Fort. Instead, choose a nice guesthouse, hotel or hostel outside the fort and wake up admiring its beauty. Many structures have rooftops here, so you will easily get a great view.
- ON A BUDGET: India has some crazy deals when it comes to budget accommodations. Places like Hostel Indian Inn offer rooms for as low as $3 USD per night for two people. Other budget options are Rumi’s Guest House (also $3 USD a night for 2 people), Hotel Nomadic ($4 USD a night, 2 people) and many more.
- MID-RANGE: Amrit Haveli is a great option if you look for something more traditional and you are open to paying a bit more. Rooms here are spectacular, and they cost about $30 USD per night for two people. Hotel Lal Garh and The Secret House are also valid options in the same price range.
- LUXURY: Looking for something special? Check out Royal Desert Camp, 1st Gate Home and The Jaigarh Palace, all listed between $100 and 120 USD/night per two people. If you want something even more exclusive consider Gobindgarh Jaisalmer, a jewel in the desert.
Best time to visit Jaisalmer
Jaisalmer’s peculiar location makes its climate particularly extreme. The best time to visit Jaisalmer is during the winter months (November – February) when temperatures are generally lower and the sun shines the whole time. Keep in mind however that during these months it gets quite cold, even reaching single digits at night, especially in the desert.
March to July are the hottest months of the whole year in Jaisalmer, with temperatures often reaching 45°C (113°F). In May 2016, the thermometer registered a record-high temperature of 49°C (113°F)!
July to mid-September are less hot (even though temperatures reach 35°C or 95°F) but see the only precipitations of the year, as monsoon season reaches Jaisalmer.
Cost of life in Jaisalmer
Life in Jaisalmer is generally more expensive if you compare it with other cities in Rajasthan. Since Jaisalmer is a small city, there aren’t as many rickshaws or restaurants, and the ones available tend to raise their prices. Moreover, if you visit during in high season you won’t be able to bargain as much.
A bottle of water, street food, and accommodations, however, cost just the same as in other areas.
To give you an idea, a bottle of water costs 20 INR ($0.25 USD), street food usually costs around 20-60INR ($0.25-0.75 USD), rooms range from $3 to $20 USD and a full meal at a restaurant range from 500 to 1500 INR ($6-18 USD) per person.
Do you need a guided tour of Jaisalmer?
When you arrive near the Fort you’ll instantly find several people offering you a guided tour of the city. It is not clear if these are official tour guides or not. But do you really need one? It really depends on what you like and how much time you have, but here is our experience:
We decided to give the guided tour a try and we went on one for visiting the part of the city outside the fort only. We agreed to pay 800 INR in total, which is about $10 USD, for a few hours.
On one hand, the tour was something really interesting. The guide was really nice and he showed us a side of the city we wouldn’t have seen otherwise, which was cool. He explained to us all the details about the haveli we were seeing, the meanings of the different statues and their history. He also told us about the differences between the historical façades (which were hand-carved) and the newer ones, which are built with machines.
On the other hand, however, after some time touring the city, we started entering some jewelry shops (which didn’t look like shops from the outside), and the guide started to get upset that we did not want to buy anything. It was so weird because we had this argument after the very first shop. Nobody will tell you you are obliged to buy something, but they will be very mad if you don’t, which makes you feel uncomfortable.
From this point onwards we started to feel quite uncomfortable with the guide, which also changed his body language, and started to speak less and walk faster. After two more shops where he was hoping we would buy something and we didn’t, he asked us for his money and the tour was over.
Whether you need a guide or not to visit Jaisalmer is up to you, but keep in mind this is common practice as many guides get commissions off their guests’ purchases. Don’t feel obliged to purchase anything, and only buy something if you really like it.
Tips for visiting Jaisalmer
- Don’t trust locations on google maps. Indians spam google maps with fake locations all the time in order to promote their businesses.
- Bring warm clothes if you visit Jaisalmer during the winter months (Nov-Feb). Also, houses don’t have any heating system so it gets quite cold at night also inside. Bring warm clothes for that too if you don’t like feeling cold while sleeping or in the morning.
- Consider spending 2 nights in Jaisalmer and save one more for the desert tour. Some people only stay two nights including the desert tour, but honestly, that would be too little to see Jaisalmer, especially after making it this far.
