Welcome to a land where nature’s raw power reigns supreme — Hveradalir, Kerlingarfjoll, a hidden gem nestled in the heart of Iceland’s untamed wilderness. Far away from the well-trodden tourist routes, this otherworldly destination invites intrepid explorers to witness a landscape forged by fire and sculpted by time. Prepare to embark on a journey to a place where geothermal wonders meet rugged mountainscapes, where steaming hot springs mingle with vibrant hues of red, orange, and yellow.
Backpackers In The World is community-supported. If you buy through our links, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.
Read also:
What is Kerlingarfjoll?
Kerlingarfjöll is a captivating mountain range located in the interior of Iceland, specifically in the Highlands region. It is renowned for its stunningly diverse geothermal landscapes, rugged peaks, and vibrant colors that create a surreal and otherworldly atmosphere.
The whole mountain range was formed in multiple sub-glacial eruptions during the last ice age.. It is characterized by towering peaks, deep valleys, and vast expanses of colorful mountains. The vibrant hues, ranging from rusty reds to fiery oranges and golden yellows, are a result of different mineral deposits in the rocks.
Rhyolite peaks, calderas and powerful geothermal areas bear witness to a well developed central volcano. The Kerlingarfjöll central volcano has however not erupted for tens of thousands of years.
Hveradalir, the geothermal area of Kerlingarfjoll
One of the most captivating aspects of Kerlingarfjöll is its geothermal activity. In fact, the Kerlingarfjöll volcanic system fuels one of Iceland’s most powerful geothermal systems. Three separate geothermal fields are found on the surface within Kerlingarfjöll, with the greatest activity of fumaroles and hot springs being in the Neri-Hveradalir area.
The area is characterized by fumaroles and mud pots, while the high density of boiling vents within the geothermal fields of Kerlingarföll is near-incomparable to other areas. A heavy sulphuric smell is very common. The highest temperature ever measured in a hot spring in Iceland, around 150°C (-300°F), was measured in the Hverabotn area.
The geothermal energy in this region is harnessed to provide heating and electricity to the Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort, making it a fascinating example of sustainable energy use in a remote setting.
Hiking at Kerlingarfjoll
Kerlingarfjöll also offers a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts and hiking enthusiasts. The surrounding highland plateau is 600-700 meters above sea level, while the highest peaks of Kerlingarfjöll reach close to 1500 meters.
mountain range provides a variety of hiking trails, ranging from easy strolls to challenging treks. The trails offer breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valleys, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the untamed beauty of the Icelandic Highlands.
How to get to Hveradalir, Kerlingarfjoll?
The geothermal area of Hveradalir is situated in the Kerlingarfjöll mountain range, in the central part of Iceland. It is approximately 150 kilometers (93 miles) inland from the capital city of Reykjavik.
The Highland roads leading to Kerlingarfjöll are gravel roads, and parts of the journey may involve river crossings. It is crucial to monitor road conditions and weather forecasts before embarking on the trip. The weather in the Highlands can be unpredictable and severe, even during the summer months. Be prepared for strong winds and sand storms, sudden changes in weather, and challenging driving conditions.
Due to its isolated location, a robust 4×4 vehicle is necessary for navigating the unpaved mountain roads. Regular passenger cars are not suitable for the rough terrain. It is recommended to rent a 4×4 vehicle with high ground clearance from reputable car rental companies in Iceland. Ensure that your vehicle is equipped with appropriate tires for off-road driving.
PLEASE NOTE: If you rent a 2WD car there and something happens to your car while on an F-Road, you are fully responsible for the cost of repairing or replacing it.
Access to this remote area is primarily through the Kjölur Highland Road (Route F35) or the Kjalvegur Road (Route F347), both of which are only accessible during the summer months.
– Kjölur Highland Road (Route F35)
This is the most common route taken to reach Kerlingarfjöll. It connects the north and south of Iceland through the Highlands. Accessible during the summer months, the Kjölur Road starts from the Ring Road (Route 1) near Gullfoss waterfall in the south and ends near Blönduós in the north. It passes through vast stretches of uninhabited landscapes, including geothermal areas and volcanic plains.
The road is significantly rough, riddled with numerous potholes and in poor condition. On this route, the unpaved section spans approximately 73 kilometers (45 miles), so anticipate traveling through this stretch at speeds ranging between 20 and 40 kilometers per hour (12 to 25 miles per hour).
– Kjalvegur Road (Route F347)
This alternative route is a less-traveled option to reach Kerlingarfjöll. It branches off from the Ring Road (Route 1) near Varmahlíð in the north and eventually connects with the Kjölur Road. This route offers scenic views and a more secluded experience, but the gravel section is longer and it is in even worse conditions than the previous one.
Also, this route includes a few river crossings, so make sure you’re comfortable with that before attempting the drive.
PLEASE NOTE: Google Maps underestimates the time needed to travel the F-Roads. On the map above, for example, Google Maps assumes an average speed of about 52kph (32mph), while in reality you’ll be travelling at a much lower speed. Consider an average of 30kph (18mph) for the entire route.
Where to park?
The end point, which is also where most hikes at Kerlingarfjoll start, is referred to as “4×4 Parking Geothermal area” on Google Maps. Check the map above for the exact location of the parking.
Hveradalir Circle, Kerlingarfjoll: hike details
Hveradalir Circle – Hike details
- Lowest point: 915 m
- Highest point: 1080 m
- Elevation gain: +/-240m
- Total length: 4km
- Duration: 2h
- Difficulty: medium
- Time of the year: June to September
There are several hiking trails at Kerlingarfjoll, from easy strolls to multi-day hikes. However, it is important to note that if you don’t want to go on a trek, no hike is required to see this place. In fact, the parking area is located extremely close to the Hveradalir geothermal area, and you just need to walk a couple of hundred metres to witness this place’s beauty from above.
The easiest and most popular trail is “Hveradalahringur“, or “Hveradalir Circle” in English. This 4-kilometer loop trail offers a moderate difficulty level and can be completed in approximately 1 to 2 hours, depending on your pace and weather conditions. Do keep in mind that allowing extra time for the various detours along the way is highly recommended.
Our experience at Kerlingarfjoll
The hike begins at the parking area near Hveradalir, where the route descends via a series of steps into the heart of the Hveradalir valley. This initial descent, though steep, poses no significant challenges apart from potential slipperiness in wet conditions. Small bridges have been strategically placed to facilitate river crossings, and the trail is well-marked, ensuring you stay on the right path with ease.
Once in the valley, we made the decision to embark on the loop trail in a clockwise direction, beginning with the captivating southern detour. Specifically, we followed the red branch that stretches towards the Mænisjokull Glacier, which can be seen on the lowest part of the trail map.
This particular section of the hike truly captivated us, treating us to some of the most extraordinary vistas along the entire route. It was within this segment that we discovered the iconic shot of Kerlingarfjöll that has taken Instagram by storm, captivating audiences with its sheer beauty.
After immersing ourselves in the picturesque splendor of this detour, we retraced our steps back to the valley’s starting point before venturing onward towards Snorrahver. As we ascended, the trail led us up a steep series of steps, eventually guiding us to the highest point of the hike.
Throughout the summer, it’s important to anticipate encountering patches of snow along the trail, which may require careful navigation. During early summer, when the snow hasn’t completely melted yet, expect an even greater presence of snow throughout the area.
Even though the weather changed for the worst, the descent from the highest point was smooth and immensely enjoyable. We found ourselves in close proximity to additional fumaroles and geothermal ponds, with steam billowing in all directions. It was a truly mesmerizing experience to witness nature’s raw power in action.
Keep in mind that as you traverse this section, be sure to exercise caution and adhere to designated paths to ensure both your safety and the preservation of the delicate natural environment.
This is just one of the many trails available at Kerlingarfjoll. For more information check out this detailed pdf guide.
Where to stay near Kerlingarfjoll?
The Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort serves as the primary accommodation option in the area. It offers a range of facilities, including cabins, a campground, a restaurant, and geothermally heated pools for a relaxing soak after a day of exploration. The resort provides a comfortable base for travelers to experience the unique wilderness of Kerlingarfjöll.
As of summer 2023, the resort is still under construction (undergoing renovation works). The campsite at Kerlingarfjoll Mountain Resort needs to be booked in advance.
Best time to visit Kerlingarfjoll
If you’re travelling on your own, the only time of the year when it’s possible to visit Kerlingarfjoll is during the summer months. The gravel roads leading to the mountain range do not open before 24.05, but they could possibly stay closed until 15.06, depending on weather conditions. Read more about it on road.is or here.
Once the road to Hveradalir in Kerlingarfjöll opens, it remains accessible throughout the entire summer season until snowfall renders it impassable, which typically occurs in September or October.
This limited window of opportunity makes the summer months even more precious, as they are the only time of the year when the majestic peaks shed their snowy blankets and unveil their true colors. It’s during this magical period that the vibrant hues of the landscape come to life, creating a breathtaking spectacle that must be witnessed firsthand.
If you want to visit Kerlingarfjoll during winter however, you still have the option to do book a superjeep tour. Here are some of the most popular tour providers: Highland Base, Amarok, and Epic Iceland.
Weather in Hveradalir, Kerlingarfjoll
The weather in Kerlingarfjöll can be unpredictable and harsh, even during the summer months. It is essential to be prepared for rapidly changing conditions, including strong winds, rain, and temperature fluctuations.
The average summer temperatures range from 10°C to 15°C (50°F to 59°F), while winter temperatures can drop well below freezing, making Kerlingarfjöll a challenging destination during the colder months.
Services at Hveradalir
Remarkably, a rudimentary restroom facility can be found at the parking area (4×4 Parking Geothermal area) of Kerlingarfjöll. This convenience is free of charge and accessible at all times, offering a simple solution for nature’s call.
However, it’s important to note that the toilet does not provide amenities such as toilet paper or running water. Therefore, it is highly recommended to come prepared with your own supplies, including toilet paper and hand sanitizer, to ensure a comfortable and hygienic experience.
Best tips for visiting Hveradalir, Kerlingarfjoll
- Have a full tank of gas. There are no gas stations in the highlands.
- Drive slowly, and make sure you have a spare tire on your car.
- Check the latest information on road conditions, as well as the opening and closing dates of the roads leading to Kerlingarfjöll.
- Pack appropriate hiking gear, including sturdy boots, layered clothing for variable weather, a waterproof jacket, a hat, and waterproof gloves.
- Kerlingarfjöll is a remote area, so be self-sufficient and prepared for limited services or facilities.
- It is advisable to have a reliable means of communication, such as a fully charged cellphone or a satellite phone, in case of emergencies.
- Follow the principles of Leave No Trace to minimize your impact on the environment. Pack out all trash and dispose of it properly.
Rules for visiting Hveradalir
The Hveradalir geothermal area has a status of elevated protection within the large area of protected landscape in Kerlingarföll. In Hveradalir, hikers must stay within the trails at all times and bikes are not allowed within the area. Dogs must be on a leash.
All markings, limited access and closures shall be respected. It is important to show utmost care around the geothermal areas, as boiling hot springs can be hidden beneath the surface.
The geothermal areas are often surrounded by vegetation which is extremely sensitive to all erosion. Follow these rules and help us protect this unique area for future generations!
Iceland packing list
Must-Have Items
A good rain jacket. You want to have a good rain coat with you when visiting Iceland, as the weather can change unpredictably. There’s plenty of shops in Reykjavik that sell – and even rent – rain jackets for your Iceland vacation.
We would recommend a good one like the Marmot Men’s Minimalist Component Jacket or the Columbia Women’s Pouring Adventure II Jacket. Quality jackets can be a bit pricey, but they’re a worthwhile investment, especially for a trip to Iceland.
Waterproof overpants. It somehow seemed an unnecessary item to bring before reaching iceland, but it turned out to be one of those items we used daily. Bring a pair of those, you won’t regret it. Check out Columbia Men’s Rebel Roamer Rain Pant and Columbia Women’s Storm Surge Pant.
Warm Socks: Packing merino wool socks for Iceland is crucial to keep your feet warm and dry in the diverse and often unpredictable weather conditions. For summer, check out DANISH ENDURANCE Merino Wool Hiking Liner Socks, they are great quality and quite thin. If you’re travelling in the coldest months, consider getting knee-high wool socks.
Warm clothing: Iceland’s weather can be unpredictable. Pack thermal layers, including merino wool for its excellent insulation, insulated gloves (especially for winter), and a good quality winter hat.
Sturdy Footwear: Waterproof and insulated boots or hiking shoes are essential for exploring Iceland’s varied terrain. For top-notch gear, you can’t go wrong with brands like Scarpa, Salomon, and La Sportiva. If you’re looking for something a bit more budget-friendly, Merrell and Altra have got you covered.
Please note: If you’re gearing up for glacier walks or ice caving, make sure to go for rigid boots that can fit crampons. Flexible boots offer greater comfort for hiking, but you might struggle if you need to use ice spikes.
Reusable Water Bottle: Iceland has clean, safe and free drinking water everywhere. Therefore, you don’t need a fancy filtration system like the GRAYL GeoPress 24 oz for Iceland.
Save money and cut down on waste by opting for a reusable water bottle. The ideal solution for Iceland is one that works well for both hot and cold beverages.
Toiletries: Pack travel-sized toiletries, including soap, shampoo, and sunscreen, as these can be expensive in Iceland.
Headlamp/Flashlight: In Iceland’s long winter nights or for exploring caves, for chasing auroras or for walking around your campsite, a reliable light source is crucial. We have this one and simply love it, it’s incredibly cheap, bright plus the battery lasts so long.
Portable Charger: Keep your devices charged during outdoor adventures, especially if you’re planning to camp in Iceland. We recently picked up a fast-charging power bank from INIU that works like a charm. Just be sure to grab one with enough capacity for all your devices.
Additional Items
Swimwear: Don’t forget your swimsuit for relaxing in geothermal pools and hot springs.
Backpack: A sturdy, weather-resistant backpack is useful for carrying your essentials during outdoor excursions. If you plan on doing lots of hiking, we recommend a dedicated backpack. You have countless options on the market, but one like Men’s Osprey Talon 22L or Women’s Osprey Tempest 20L would be perfect.
Camera and Binoculars: Iceland’s landscapes are stunning, so bring a camera and binoculars for wildlife and scenic views.
Local Currency: Have some Icelandic Krona (ISK) on hand for small purchases and in case you visit places that don’t accept cards. We never used cash in Iceland, so it’s not something you must bring around, but in a couple of situations it would have been handful.
Food and Drinks: Due to Iceland’s relatively high prices, especially for alcohol, and limited food options in some areas, consider carrying some essential snacks and beverages.
Hiking Gear: If you plan on hiking, consider bringing trekking poles, a compact first-aid kit, and gaiters.
Wet Wipes: Handy for quick clean-ups, especially when camping or on long road trips. These can easily be bought once you land in Iceland, or packed in your backpack before leaving. Check these flushable ones if you’re looking for some.
Swiss Army Knife or Multi-Tool: Useful for various outdoor tasks, especially when camping or preparing food. Here is a cheap one.
Travel Pillow: For added comfort during long drives, flights or while camping. The provided ones aren’t always the best. Here is a good one.