Everest Base Camp: how to trek Nepal on a budget

HOW TO CHOOSE AND PLAN YOUR TREK IN NEPAL

There are so many amazing trekking options in Nepal, so why did we pick Everest Base Camp? The main ones are located in the Everest, Annapurna and Mustang regions. We personally chose to trek around Mt.Everest, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, for the jaw-dropping views (you are very close to the peaks), the challenge of the high altitude and the spiritual Sherpa culture. Also, no cars nor motorbikes have access to this region, so it remains peaceful and authentic.

We’ve planned everything with a good map, online blogs and the classic “Lonely Planet, Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya” guidebook. We also shared valuable information with other backpackers in our hostel in Kathmandu.

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TREK DETAILS

OUR MOUNT EVEREST BASE CAMP ITINERARY

We first flew from Kathmandu to the (terrifying) airport in Lukla, where the trek starts. Our itinerary included the legendary Everest base camp as well as surrounding mountains like the Kala Patthar Ri, the Chukkung Ri, the Cho La Pass and the Gokyo Ri.

We then came down to Lukla to fly back to Kathmandu. So it’s a pretty long trek, 160km and – most importantly – 8 km of total ascent.

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SLEEPING AND EATING DURING OUR TREK TO MT EVEREST BASE CAMP

There are cute teahouses that offer food and accommodation in the Sherpa villages all along the trail. Rooms are basic though, with twin beds and blankets. They are not heated and poorly insulated so make sure to bring a warm sleeping bag (and earplugs if you don’t want to hear Barney snoring in the next room). But the dining room has a nice stove (using yak dung as a source of fuel!), where you will probably spend most of your evenings with friendly people. We personally didn’t need to book in advance as we were trekking in the low season. We could just show up and ask for a room.

The food is amazing. And servings are generous. For example, if you order a traditional “daal bhaat”, they usually serve you twice (even more, if you ask). Trust us, you’ll never go to bed hungry. They serve delicious momos (dumplings), soup, rice, noodles and potatoes. And the beer is good too. We recommend trying the Sherpa and the Everest beers (but be careful, altitude and alcohol are not best friends).

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Credits: @17pineneedles

MAIN CHALLENGES HIKING TO MT EVEREST BASE CAMP

The main difficulty is the lack of oxygen at higher altitudes. Only 50% of the sea-level value is left at 5’500m, so people usually experience mild symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) above 2’500m like headaches, breathlessness, weakness and difficulty to sleep.

These symptoms should be taken very seriously because severe symptoms can follow. And these can be fatal. They include accumulation of fluid in the brain (HACE) and in the lungs (HAPE). It’s crucial to be able to recognize them. HACE can be characterized by confusion or an inability to walk on a straight line and HAPE by breathlessness at rest or dry cough. Discuss these with your doctor before you go and see below “How to avoid altitude sickness”.

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Credits: @17pineneedles

The second difficulty is the (freezing) cold. Trekking in the sun is enjoyable. But temperatures drop drastically immediately after sunset, freezing your eyelashes. To give you an idea, the temperature in our room in Gorak Shep went down to -20°C during the night. There was even frost on our sleeping bags.

Concerning the physical challenge, it’s more general fatigue and breathlessness, rather than burning muscles. We would say that Everest Base Camp is attainable if you are in a good physical condition. Crossing high passes, however, is more challenging. Especially if you carry your own backpack. And it’s always advisable to start a cardio training routine at least 2 months before the trek.

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Credits: @17pineneedles

And last but not least: waking up very early, finding your way alone, knowing that AMS can occur anytime when you are hours away from any village, not arriving at the lodge before sunset, ascending steep walls aside deep ravines… All these are stressful things that will make your trek even more challenging and memorable.

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Credits: @17pineneedles

HOW TO AVOID MOUNTAIN SICKNESS

It’s very important to ascend slowly to allow your body to acclimatize.

Here are the main recommendations :

• above 2.500m, try not to sleep more than 300m higher than the previous night 
• sleep lower than the highest altitude reached during the day
• acclimatization days are helpful
• drink enough fluids (eating and sleeping properly is also important)
• ask your doctor about acetazolamide (Diamox or generic versions)
• bring an oximeter or ask your lodge to check your blood oxygen levels
• if you have mild symptoms, stop ascending until they disappear
• if you have severe symptoms, descend immediately and seek medical care

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Credits: @17pineneedles

DID WE HAVE A GUIDE OR A PORTER TO HIKE TO MT. EVEREST BASE CAMP?

We didn’t hire a guide or a porter because we wanted to be completely free. This gave us great flexibility to change plans, to stay longer at a place we like, to wake up unexpectedly early the next morning to catch the sunrise and to stop a lot to admire the views.

We also love to plan our trips on our own. By doing our own research, we learn a lot and we can also select the spots we prefer. And if we have any doubt or questions during the trail, we can always ask at our teahouse the night before.

But hiring a guide has many pros as well (assistance if you experience mountain sickness, knowledge about the region…). It just depends on your style. However, if you choose this option, just make sure the porter has good working conditions like decent salary, equipment and insurance (and don’t overcharge his bag). Also, note that it adds an extra cost.

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Credits: @17pineneedles

HIKING GEAR

WHAT’S IN OUR BACKPACK?

One tip: pack light! You will witness some of the most stunning views of your life up there. So you don’t want to be distracted by a too-heavy backpack. There is one exception: you can add some pencils and school books (better than candies) for the lovely schoolchildren you’ll encounter on the trail. Here is what you need :

Wallet:

Cash, credit cards, passport and TIMS card (Also scan your important documents)

Clothes:

• Base layer (evacuates sweat): underwear, legging, t-shirts and trekking socks (odour free merino wool is a must)
• An insulating layer (keeps you warm): down jacket and/or fleece
• External layer (against wind, rain and snow): Waterproof breathable shell and a pair of trekking pants
• 1 pair of Trekking shoes (broken in)
• Hat, scarf and gloves (mittens are warmer, add inner gloves for versatility)

Sleeping system:

• Light, inflatable pillow
• Sleeping bag (-18 degrees Celsius is good and you can always put some additional clothes on if you need)

Electronics:

• Camera
• Phone
• Adaptor, chargers, solar charger and external battery
• E-book reader

Accessories:

• Backpack + Waterproof shell
• Trekking sticks
• Crampons
• Sunglasses
• Knife (always bring a knife for outdoors)
• Headlamp + batteries
• Water filtration and purification system
• Trash bag
• Other: earplugs for the night, pen, padlock, lighter, watch

Toiletry bag:

As usual. Try to avoid plastic and add:

• 50 SPF Sunscreen and lipstick
• Light and a quick-drying microfiber towel
• Toilet paper

First Aid Kit:

Maybe add an Oximeter to your usual kit.

Medication kit:

Add Acetazolamide (Diamox) and band-aids for blisters to your usual kit.

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Credits: @17pineneedles

BUDGETING

AN AVERAGE COST BREAKDOWN

• Permits: Trekking Information Management System (TIMS) card (2’000Rs, 16EUR), Sagarmatha National Park entrance fee (3000Rs, 24EUR)
• Flight (round trip): 30’000Rs, 240EUR (You can also take a jeep and then hike. It’s cheaper but it adds 3-4 days)
• Meal : 3-8EUR (400-1’000Rs)
• Room: 4-8EUR (500-1’000Rs) (If you don’t eat your dinner and breakfast in the lodge you are staying at, the price of the room is higher. When trekking in the low-season, the room can sometimes be free of charge if you eat there).
• Hot shower: 2.5-4EUR (300-500Rs) (Not available at the higher lodges)
• Wifi: 4-8 EUR (500-1000Rs) (Not always working, especially in higher lodges)
• Battery charging : 1-4 EUR (100-500Rs)
• Our total for 25 days (per person, including flights): 850EUR
• Our total per day (per person, without flights): 25EUR

Porters and yaks are working hard to carry all the food at these altitudes. That’s why the prices are higher than in Kathmandu. And the higher you go, the higher the prices will be.

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Credits: @17pineneedles

BEST TIPS FOR HIKING IN NEPAL

THINGS TO KEEP IN MIND WHEN HIKING MOUNT EVEREST BASE CAMP

Our planet has offered us so many beautiful places, like the Himalayas.

We need to minimize our impact and trek responsibly to preserve this wonderful nature, that’s why we’ve tried avoiding plastic as much as possible during our trek.

Buying a water filtration/purification system has been our best investment for our travels. We’ve also picked up rubbish on our way down and we’ve carbon offset our flight by supporting a project for climate action in Southeastasia.

OUR BEST TIPS FOR TREKKING MT EVEREST BASE CAMP

• Never trek alone. During our trek, we’ve seen a guy alone and unconscious on a glacier, another one alone with a twisted ankle in the dark with no headlamp on a steep peak. You don’t want to be one of them!
  
  
• Always plan your day ahead. How many hours? What’s the height difference? Where can you have a lunch break?
  
  
• Bring something to read. Evenings can be long aside the fire if there are no other trekkers in your lodge. “Into thin air” (Jon Krakauer) and “The snow Leopard” (Peter Matthiessen) are classics. Many teahouses sell books, but an e-book reader is a good investment as it’s lighter.
  
  
• Choose your season wisely. The best weather for good visibility occurs between October and December. We chose December because there are fewer people as it gets colder. The downside is that it can also snow, and you can get stuck in the airport in Lukla for several days.
  
  
• Tell your embassy in Nepal where exactly you’ll be trekking and when.
  
  
• Empty your water bottles at night because they can freeze. Especially if they include filters because these would then break.
  
  
• Try merino wool before your trek. It’s bad to see that you are actually allergic to it only once you’re up there and have no other option for the next 20 days (ask Melissa).
  
  
• Glaciers shift! The trail can change from year to year and your map (even maps.me) might not be updated. Ask your teahouse before leaving in the morning and avoid getting lost.
  
  
• You can buy trekking gear in Kathmandu (original or fake). Some are even for rent. Just make sure to brake in your pair of trekking shoes at home first.
  
  
• Master layering. Dress in 3 layers for maximum flexibility. So you can put layers on and off to regulate your temperature. You always want to stay warm but avoid sweating.

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Credits: @17pineneedles