How to hike Huchuy Qosqo without a Guide

The secret is out. Peru offers some of the most dramatic landscapes and scenic hiking trails on the planet. Popular routes like the Inca Trail and Laguna 69 suffer from overcrowding during peak tourist season.

Huchuy Qosqo, however, remains a well-kept local secret. This hike near the Andean capital of Cusco offers all the spectacular views of some of the Instagram favorites, without all the crowds, and unlike many of the treks in Peru, you can easily hike Huchuy Qosqo without a guide.

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WHAT IS HUCHUY QOSQO?

Huchuy Qosqo is one of the most intact and least visited Incan sites in Southern Peru. Aside from the sites scattered throughout the Incan Trail- Huchuy Qosqo is as good as it gets, but this hike can easily be completed in a single day and requires no guide or official government permits. It’s perfect for travelers on a budget or time-crunch.

The path snakes its way through a variety of landscapes beginning in the clay streets of rural Peru and climbing to a towering 15,000 feet above sea level. This trail isn’t necessarily difficult, but it is particularly beautiful on a sunny afternoon. You’ll get expansive views of the Sacred Valley and unrivaled views of the small towns far below, towering mountains and sweeping green valleys dotted with cacti and small waterfalls before reaching the Incan site.

Despite being relatively easy to navigate and astonishingly pretty- this is one of the least visited trails in the Cusco area. Only about 20 people per day in the high season hit these paths. Likely because of the altitude. Hiking to 15,000 feet without a guide can be intimidating to those of us not familiar with trekking at high elevations.

As for the nitty-gritty details: the trail is about 10 miles long, climbs 1,700 feet, and descends a knee-breaking 4,000 feet. The peak elevation is around 15,000 feet, which can be difficult if you’re not yet acclimated. I recommend doing at least one more hike in Cusco at elevation before setting out on your own. The trail should take you around 6-7 hours if you’re in decent physical shape, allowing for stops along the way to take epic photos and to catch your breath.

⛰️ HIKE DETAILS
Length: 16km
Elevation difference: +518m / -1219m
Max elevation: 4572m

Tour vs. Independent Trek

But hold on… shouldn’t I just do a tour and make this easy on myself? You could. But aside from being prohibitively expensive to many, the main reason I discourage getting a guide for Huchuy Qosqo is that you don’t need one. The most difficult part of the entire journey is getting to the trailhead itself. After that, there’s practically no way you could get lost on the clearly defined (though, not marked) route.

There’s just no reason to spend more money to have more people on the trail with you.

Just skip the tour on this one because you’ll be stuck with it for Rainbow Mountain and the Inca Trail anyway.

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COST OF TREKKING HUCHUY QOSQO WITHOUT A TOUR

Aside from the cost of reaching the trailhead and getting back to Cusco, the only expenses for the Huchuy Qosqo trek without a guide are the 7 soles ($1.75) per person entrance fee to the site itself and the lunch you bring with you. 

Depending on the time of year of your visit, however, you may be the only one on the trail and not even asked to pay an entrance fee. I visited on a drizzly rainy afternoon in November (not recommended to hike in the rain) and whoever was supposed to be collecting entrance fees was nowhere in sight.

Typically, you’ll be approached while exploring the site and asked to pay the ticket price. Always in cash.

HOW TO GET TO HUCHUY QOSQO WITHOUT A GUIDE

Your biggest expense will be getting to and from the trailhead. Here’s a step-by-step breakdown of how to do it for cheap.

You’ll begin your journey in the cobblestone-covered city of Cusco, but the actual trailhead is in the quaint lakeside town of Chinchero. Reaching Chinchero can be a bit of a fiasco if you want to do it cheaply, but don’t be discouraged because it is possible. Here are your two options for getting to the trailhead on your own.

1. Grab a collectivo to “Ollantaytambo” from Calle Pavitos in Cusco. This is where all the mini-buses congregate. The collectivo should cost about 6 soles ($1.50) per person. Get off the bus at the Chinchero to stop and hail a taxi to the trailhead from here. If you need help finding Chinchero, the collectivo driver can tell you when to get off. Ask your taxi driver for “Camino Inca Huchuy Qosqo”. There will be plenty of drivers waiting around the bus stop. This should cost around 10-15 soles ($2.50-$3.75) for the taxi.

Total Cost: Under $5

2. Take a private taxi directly to the trailhead from Cusco.  Many cab drivers will try to convince you that this is the best option. Our driver flat-out refused to take us to the collectivo terminal. Surely taking the taxi is the most direct way to reach the trailhead, but it can cost around 50-70 soles ($12-$18).

Total Cost: Around $15

Along the drive, you’ll catch a glimpse of rural Peruvian life. This is one of the main allures of the Huchuy Qosqo trek. A chance to see small villages, livestock, and sheepherders. You will know you are in the right place when you reach the massive red signpost at the start of the trail. 

Getting Back to Cusco

Fortunately, the trek to Huchuy Qosqo doesn’t end in the same town it begins in. The hike ends in the small town of Lamay in the Sacred Valley. You could spend an hour or so and thoroughly explore the quaint village if you have any energy left. Immediately across the bridge, you’ll nab another collectivo on its way back to Cusco for 6 soles ($1.50) per person. There is a pretty clear bus stop, but if you can’t locate it, ask around, you will usually see people sitting waiting for the bus, or taxis on the corner across the street. The ride back to Cusco takes about 30-45 minutes.

A TOTAL BUDGET BREAKDOWN FOR THE HUCHUY QOSQO TREK

• Transport to the Trailhead (w/collectivo): 21 Soles ($5.40 USD)
• Entrance Fee: 7 Soles ($1.80 USD)
• Transport back to Cusco: 6 Soles ($1.70 USD)
• Total (+ packed lunch): 34 Soles ($8.90 USD)

WHAT TO EXPECT DURING THE HUCHUY QOSQO TREK

This was undoubtedly one of my favorite hikes in Peru. You’ll have the larger-than-life landscapes of Peru all to yourself and have the opportunity to feel like a real explorer. Stopping to photograph all the incredible views, it’s likely the hike will take up most of your day. On a sunny day, you’ll be blown away by the scenery, and I promise this adventure will be worth your time.

 The trail can be broken down into four sections.

The Village

For the first mile, you’ll share the path with sheep and their caretakers. The incline is gradual as you snake your way along the dirt path toward the grassy green hillside in front of you. Here you’ll get a sense of the difficulty of climbing at elevation as the trail begins around 13,000 feet.

The Climb

This is the only difficult part of the trek. As you ascend into the foggy mountaintops you’ll follow a slightly trodden path into high-elevation. Don’t be fooled by the first false summit either. This portion of the trail will take around 1.5 hours if you’re stopping periodically to drink water, catch your breath, and savor your surroundings. When you see the stones that are shaped like steps, you’ll know you’re almost there.

The Valley

Once you’ve crested 15,000 feet, you’ll be pleased to start your careful descent into new scenery. It will offer a chance to catch your breath, and you can take solace in the fact that the hike from here on out is mostly downhill. Here the landscape is vastly different from the start of the trail. Cacti cling to grey cliffsides covered in fluffy foliage, and tall golden grass fields ring the trail. When you reach the bottom of the canyon, you’ll find the only trail marker- a simple sign directing you away from the trickling river and further down the canyon. It’s here you’ll enter the Incan site and the best views of the entire trail. Facing the mountains and overlooking a scenic valley town- you’ll understand why this is one of my favorite trails in Peru.

The hike down takes no more than one hour, maybe an hour and a half if you stop for many photos. Once you reach the Incan site, you should pause for lunch if you haven’t already. I spent around an hour at Huchuy Qosqo itself, eating lunch and watching the resident Llamas graze, while clouds poured over the mountain peaks in front of me.

The Descent

Many hikers argue that this is actually the most difficult section of the trail. If you have bad knees, then you might agree. The descent into the town of Lamay is a one-hour section of constant steep downhill along cliffside dirt switchbacks. The epic views will remain in your mind as a reminder of why you decided to embark on this long journey in the first place, as your legs turn to jello.

Just as your knees are about to give out, the trail will level out as you arrive in Lamay, walking the flat path through the community into the town center to hail your collectivo.

BEST TIME TO TREK HUCHUY QOSQO

All trekking in Peru is seasonal. Unlike the tall spires of Ausangate and Salkantay, Huchuy Qosqo doesn’t get extreme snowy weather. It lies within the protection of the Sacred Valley. However, you will want to avoid the white-out fog and cold rain that plagues Peru during the rainy season if you want to enjoy the views of Huchuy Qosqo. And believe me, you do.

The best time to trek Huchuy Qosqo is from May-October. But that’s not to say you can’t hike during the off-season. Just try to pick a sunny day. 

Since Huchuy Qosqo is still relatively unknown and underappreciated, you can visit the trail any day of the week and expect to have few fellow hikers. 

WHAT TO PACK FOR HUCHUY QOSQO

You’ll want to pack as light as possible for this day hike. Hiking at elevation is a challenge. Hiking at elevation with a heavy pack weighing you down is miserable. Here’s a list of what you should bring with you to trek Huchuy Qosqo without a guide.

• Sunscreen/Sun Hat
• Rejuvenating snacks like fruit, bread, and nuts.
• 1.5 Liters of water per person. (Lifestraw Filter Water Bottle if you have one)
• Rain shell or poncho in case of unexpected weather changes
• Cash for all transportation and entrance fees
• Ibuprophen in case of adverse effects due to altitude

Most backpackers are traveling ultra-light and bring trekking poles halfway around the world with them. We didn’t, and I wish we had them for many hikes in Peru. Trekking in the mountains means a lot of steep descents that would have been much easier if we had been able to get our hands on trekking poles. If you have some- this would be a good hike to use them on, your knees will thank you.

MY INSIDER TIPS FOR MAXIMUM ENJOYMENT ON THE HUCHUY QOSQO TREK

1. Avoid attempting this hike on a rainy day.

This trek is all about the views. Rain makes this more of a painful trudge toward an Incan site rather than an enjoyable experience.

2. Download Maps.Me for peace of mind.

The trail isn’t difficult to follow, but it is unmarked. When I’m hiking without a guide, I always download an offline map to make sure I don’t meander off-trail.

3. Don’t do the trail backward. Always end in Lamay.

Some taxi drivers and tours will tell you the route begins in Lamay, but that’s nonsense. If you start in Lamay, almost the entire trek will be a grueling uphill battle, and the mountains will be to your back, virtually eliminating all the best views. Not only that, but you’ll end your hike in a remote village with no access to public transportation to get you back to Cusco. Just don’t do it.

4. Be sure to either acclimatize in Cusco for 3 days minimum or do at least one hike at elevation before Huchuy Qosqo.

Hiking at 15,000 feet is exhausting. And if you’re not acclimated, you’ll have nausea, headaches, and feel downright miserable for most of the hike. Don’t make it harder on yourself than it needs to be.

5. Leave Cusco between 6-8 AM.

Like I previously mentioned, this is a full-day hike. We began at 8 AM and ended at 2 PM but because of light rain, we rarely stopped for photos. 8 AM is the absolute latest that you should leave Cusco, so you have ample time to complete the Huchuy Qosqo trek before dark. Most travelers set out earlier because the weather can be more predictable in the mornings.

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