The Cetina River Spring is a natural marvel. Rings of turquoise water, surrounded by greenery, undulate filling a deep eye-shaped crevice in the earth. This incredible karst spring adds further depth to an already charming landscape from which this village in Croatia gets its name. Join us on a journey through the Eye of the Earth and get ready to plan your trip to this beautiful, yet unusual, place.
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What is Izvor Cetine?
What once used to be one of Croatia’s best-kept secrets, the Izvor Cetine (Croatian for Source of Cetina) is out and visitors can’t get enough of this unique beautiful spot. As the word “source” suggests, this is the location where the Cetina river gushes from the earth.
Due to its unique shape, Izvor Cetine – or Cetina River Spring – is also known as the “Eye of the Earth”. The water that jets out from underground forms a natural pool and spills into a nearby river feeding it with fresh spring water. About 105km down the line and the cold water flows towards the Adriatic sea, in the town of Omiš.
In fact, the majestic Cetina River is the longest river in Dalmatia and supplies water to most of the region.
Where is the Cetina River Spring?
Izvor Cetina is located inland of the Dalmatia region, not far from the border of Bosnia and Herzegovina, in Southern Croatia. The nearest major towns are Sibenik (66km), Split (79km) and Zadar (141km), while it’s relatively far from Croatia’s capital city Zagreb (332km) and its third-largest city Rijeka (284km).
It is about a 1.20-hour drive from both Sibenik and Split. Check out the map below for the exact location of the Cetina River Spring.
How to get to the Cetina River Spring
Getting to the Cetina River Spring requires a car. It’s a very remote place, therefore there is no public transportation available to reach it.
FROM SPLIT: This is probably the easiest way to get there. From Split, just follow the main D1 road for 69km of the total 79km. The D1 is a toll-free single-lane road that goes all the way up to Zagreb. Once you reach “Restauran Ivan I”, turn right for the last few kilometers until you reach Cetina.
FROM SIBENIK: The drive from Sibenik is also fairly simple. There are a few more intersections, but the road is toll-free and you will easily make it with google maps. Follow directions to Vrlika, then the last part of the road is the same as the one described above.
FROM ZADAR: This route takes about 2 hours, and you will have an option with tolls (which is about 10 minutes faster) and a couple of options without tolls. You will be driving south, following part of the D1 in the opposite direction until the same “Restauran Ivan I”, from which the road is the same.
The last part of the road (the one going from Restauran Ivan I to Cetina) is narrow, but it’s entirely paved so you don’t need a heavy-duty car to get there.
Parking at the Cetina Spring
Once you reach Cetina, you can park your car either along the road, near the church, or wherever you find a spot. There is no designated parking area apart from the very small lot in front of the church (which fits about 3-4 cars). There also aren’t any specific rules or restrictions for parking, so make sure cars can pass by, and you’re good to go. Also, parking at the Cetina River Spring is free of charge.
From the church, you will already have a gorgeous view of the Eye of the Earth. To get down you can just follow the trail. It’s a very short staircase to reach the spring, measuring less than 100 meters.
Wearing shoes is recommended, but they aren’t really mandatory here. The trail is so simple it can be done even in flip-flops.
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Plan your visit to the Eye of the Earth
The source of Cetina is located somewhat off the beaten path, and most people visit it on a day trip. Therefore, it is important to plan your visit well so you can get the most out of it.
What to bring to Cetina
If you plan on swimming (or at least try to dip your feet) at the Cetina Spring, make sure to bring dry clothes and a towel for when you get out. It’s not a joke, the water is freezing cold and you’ll really want something warm after a dip.
The access to the Spring is easy and the terrain is sandy, so you won’t really need any water shoes or flip-flops. The trail that leads down the spring is also very short, so there is no need to bring specific hiking shoes.
You may also want to bring some snacks and water. Locals have arranged a small drink stand next to the Cetina Spring where you can buy water and other drinks, as well as prepackaged ice creams, but there isn’t any proper bar or restaurant at the spring so pack according to your necessities. However, you can find restaurants and shops in Vrlika, Ježević or Kijevo, all located within 10km of the Cetina River Spring.
Best time to visit the Cetina River Spring
Make sure to visit the Cetina River Spring on a sunny day, as those are the best conditions to appreciate its true beauty. We’ve been twice, both mid-day and at sunrise, and we had quite different experiences. The Eye of the Earth isn’t the secret place it used to be anymore, and in the central hours of the day – especially during high season – this place can be quite packed.
Early in the morning, the source of Cetina is a much quieter place, while during the day it gets more hectic as visitors enjoy bathing and sunbathing on the spring’s shores. Below you can see two photos taken on consecutive days, during peak season.
Photography tips
Let’s talk photography! First of all, to get the iconic “eye” type of shot you need to have a drone, and possibly one with a polarizer filter on.
You can play around with the drone and get the angle you like the most, but the look you’ve seen on Instagram or on google can only be obtained with a top-down shot (and quite a bit of editing, we are not gonna lie). The photo below was taken with the new DJI Mini 3 Pro without a polarizer filter, if you’re wondering.
You can also try to obtain a similar result just with a camera, but you need to be quite high, shooting either from the church or from the slope on the opposite side of the spring.
Can you swim in the Cetina River Spring?
The answer to this question is somewhat controversial. There are some online comments and reviews suggesting that swimming is not allowed here, as the spring serves as a source of drinking water for the local population.
Our research, both before visiting and during the writing of this piece, revealed that, aside from personal opinions, there is no official statement about a swimming ban at the Cetina River Spring.
As of 2023, swimming at Izvor Cetina is still allowed or tolerated, though it may be prohibited in the near future. However, it’s not for the faint of heart.
The water at the source of the Cetina River is incredibly cold, ranging from 4°C to 7°C, even during the hottest summer months. Most people hesitate to take the plunge, while some more adventurous souls, like the man in the cover picture, manage to brave the chilly waters for a few minutes.
For reference: The man swimming in the image above and in the cover picture was a Croatian man who was already bathing there when we arrived.
Cetina River Spring Depth
The Cetina River spring is incredibly deep. In the past years, divers have tried to determine how deep the Eye of the Earth is, without much success. According to the Croatian Nature Institute that manages the Cetina River Spring, divers have reached a depth of 155 meters (or 508 feet), so the spring is even deeper than that!
Cetina Rafting
The Cetina River is a great spot to do Rafting, however it’s very important to note that all of these attractions are located near the mouth of the river, more than 70km (1h20m) away from the Cetina Spring. The river near the source of Cetina, on the other hand, is small and calm and flows at a low rate.
Some of the best companies to try rafting on the Cetina River are Cetina Tours, Cetina Travel, Rafting Pirate and Croatia Rafting.
Where to stay near the Cetina River Spring
Since the source of Cetina is located in a remote location, there aren’t many accommodations in its proximity. The closest one is Villa Leko Dream House, located just 2km away from Izvor Cetine. The villa, unfortunately, happens to be one of the most expensive ones in the area, priced at €377 EUR ($381 USD)a night, but it has a pool and sleeps 6 people which might make it a good option if you’re travelling in a group.
💰 ON A BUDGET: The most budget-friendly option is Rooms Leda, which costs just €40 EUR ($41 USD)/night per 2 people. The rooms are nice, and it’s great value for money. This accommodation is located in Vrlika, about 11km from the spring.
Another great option is Apartment Ana, which goes from €50 EUR ($51 USD)/night and sleeps 2 to 4 people. The accommodation has great reviews, the rooms are nice and it’s about 8km from the Cetina River Spring.
However, our favourite place to stay near the Cetina River Spring has to be Rooms and Apartments Budiša. This accommodation was recently restored, and it’s located in an almost secret location, near Lake Peruća. It is managed by the warmest locals, which is ideal if you’re looking for something more than a roof over your head. The rooms are also budget-friendly, priced at around €50 EUR ($51 USD)/night for 2 people, and they offer free bikes, free kayaks and even a free boat around the lake! More about Lake Peruća below.
NOTE: The prices above refer to mid-low season. Expect them to be slightly higher during summer time (July and August).
Off-the-beaten-path: discover Lake Peruća
Pretty much 99% of the people that visit the Cetina River Spring, ONLY visit the Cetina River Spring. This is such a pity, because the surrounding of Izvor Cetine are also very beautiful. While there are several things to do around, we’d like to focus on Lake Peruća, one of the quietest and most overlooked places in Croatia. The Lake, which is just 12km from Izvor Cetine, is fed by the very same water of the spring. It’s the first lake formed by the Cetina River, and it’s a great place to relax, go on a kayak and enjoy nature.
You will often see locals cultivating their land by the shores of the lake, without any tourists around. It is really the perfect place to relax and enjoy nature.
READ ALSO: Discover Lake Peruča, Dalmatia’s best kept secret | Rural Croatia
Is there a Whale in Cetina?
It’s hard to believe, but there are actually so many people wondering if there was really a whale in the Cetina Spring or not. Well, the answer is no. Obviously not.
The viral video you may have seen online is the result of postproduction. The only creatures that live in the Cetina River Spring are small fish and bugs.
Het oog in Cetina s prachtig, ook op een half bewolkte dag. Inmiddels is zwemmen verboden en dat is wel zo fijn en mooi voor de foto’s!
Juni 2024
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