So you’ve decided that you want to go backpacking in Cape Verde but you aren’t sure which of the islands to visit and what to expect. Read our full guide to learn how best to plan your trip. Whether you’re a pro backpacker or a first-timer this guide is meant to give you an overview to help you navigate.
SKIP AHEAD:
What is Cape Verde
Cape Verde or Cabo Verde is comprised of 10 islands and is an archipelago of volcanic origin in the Atlantic Ocean off the northwestern coast of Africa, about 600 km west of Senegal.
It’s divided into two groups of islands, the first is the Barlavento (meaning windward) islands including Santo Antão, São Vicente, Santa Luzia, São Nicolau, Sal, and Boa Vista, and the second group is called the Sotavento (meaning leeward) islands including Maio, Santiago, Fogo, and Brava. Together, the surface area of these volcanic islands amounts to about 4,033 km² in size. Out of the 10 islands, nine are inhabited, and only one – Santa Luzia (the smallest) – is not inhabited.
Its population is about 556,000 and the inhabitants are descendants of the first permanent inhabitants in the late 15th century of West African slaves, Portuguese colonists, and Italian traders. Historically, the archipelago was the first European settlement in the tropics.
The largest city is Praia, which is the country’s capital, on Santiago island. In Cabo Verde, people speak Portuguese and Kabuverdianu (Cape Verdean Creole).
Getting to and around Cape Verde
These are the best ways how to travel to and around Cape Verde. While getting to the islands became easier with more and more flights from many different destinations, getting around still remains quite tricky, especially if you want to visit different islands. We broke it down for you.
GETTING TO
There are 4 international airports in Cape Verde, they are on Santiago, Sao Vicente, Sal, and Boa Vista islands. The main airlines that fly into Cape Verde are TUI and TAP Air. There aren’t always direct flights as it really depends on where you are flying from. Here are some examples:
TUI Airways – If you’re flying out from the UK, there are several options to fly to Sal or Boa Vista.
TAP Air – If you’re flying from Europe chances are you’ll catch a flight with a connection in Lisbon, Portugal when you’re on your way to Santiago, Sao Vicente, Sal, and Boa Vista.
GETTING AROUND
The Transport Interlihas de Cabo Verde (TICV) airline is based at Nelson Mandella International Airport, in Praia and flies mainly domestic inter-island flights within the country, but unfortunately, it doesn’t offer international flights. If you plan to travel between islands we recommend booking in advance because they can book fast, especially in the summer.
Airplanes – The islands Santiago, Sao Vicente, Sao Nicolau, Sal, Boavista, Maio, and Fogo can be reached with Bestfly. The flights sort of operate like a bus service, making hopping from island to island easy enough.
Ferries – If you’re in Fogo and are heading to Brava or in Sao Vicente heading to Santo Antao you’ll need to use the ferry service. The ferry service isn’t always recommended to tourists such as in between Santiago and Fogo, as well as Sao Vicente and Sao Nicolau. In these situations, it’s best to book an inter-island flight.
Taxis – Most travellers to the islands do not drive themselves, this is partly because many areas of the islands are still very natural and do not have paved roads with clear indications for directions. We recommend asking your accommodation to help you book a car or taxi driver. If you travel as a group to a similar location with other guests where you are staying, that could be a great way to save money and also make new friends while travelling.
Car – If you want to give driving a go, then hire cars that are available on the islands of Santiago, Fogo, Boa Vista, Sao Vicente, and Santo Antao. Other than the capital of Praia on Santiago, Cape Verdean roads are generally quiet, but not always well sign-posted!
Best time to visit Cape Verde
The islands have a dry-tropical climate, humidity is quite low, and it doesn’t rain often. The average daily temperature ranges from 22°C to 26°C. Highs of 29°C are seen in July/August with lows of 20°C in December/January. Ocean surface water temperatures range from 22°C to 27°C.
In general, there are two kinds of seasons, the “dry” season from November to July and the “wet” season with (rare) rain from August to October. The sunshine is from about 18 pm to 19 pm from August to October and 22 pm to 24 pm the rest of the months.
Top things to do in Cape Verde
The first thing to do when arriving at your accommodation is to ask for info on the kinds of activities you can do. Oftentimes, drivers and tour groups have agreements with accommodations, leave pamphlets, and information about the kinds of tours you can book. It’s a good idea to “shop around”, you can also find some stands advertising water activities by the beach, and then decide which is giving you the best offer. From our experience, the prices don’t differ too much if you’re staying in the village. If you decide to stay at a resort drivers will ask for more because of the extra distance to pick you up and drop you off.
Visit the beaches in Cape Verde
Cape Verde is known mainly for its pristine beaches. While you can swim on most beaches, there are a few (the ones that are more isolated from touristy areas) where you cannot swim either for safety reasons or because it is a natural reserve. Apart from a few that might charge €5-10 EUR/adult for a chair, most beaches are actually free so you can bring your towel and enjoy the water.
Turtle watching in Cape Verde
Cape Verde has the 3rd largest population of Loggerhead turtles. The islands of Sal and Boa Vista are the two main ones where these turtles go to nest, where you can book a tour to see the nesting from July to October. The islands have conservation projects to protect the turtles and when visiting with a tour they tell you to be very quiet and respectful as the conservationists take notes on the nesting. Note that this kind of activity takes place at night. During your visit, you see the turtle nesting and making its way back to the water. We did this tour on Boa Vista island, and you can find information on the island’s website for tours which costs €65 EUR/adult. The entire excursion lasts about 5 hours and includes transport and the documentation needed to pass on the beaches where the nesting/hatching occurs.
Horseback riding in Cape Verde
Horseback riding in the desert or in the shallow waters of the turquoise blue water is a lot of fun and we recommend checking it out if you get the chance. Riding is done in small groups, minimum of 2 people, usually with a max of 8, and will cost about €70 EUR/adult for an hour excursion and including picking you up and dropping you off. Sal and Boas Vista are the two main islands where you’ll find this activity the most. If you can’t get the number of a local guide that does this kind of excursion but see someone with horses on a tour, it’s normal to go up to the guide and ask what they charge and what availability they have.
Go snorkeling and scuba diving in Cape Verde
Snorkeling at Santa Monica beach in Sal is one of the best places to see life below water. Cape Verde waters have a lot of coral biodiversity, shipwrecks, and marine life to explore. You can find stands to book your tours by the beach, and you can expect to pay around €60-80 EUR/adult.
Try kitesurfing in Cape Verde
Santa Maria in the south of Sal is the best place for kitesurfing. Look for Kite Beach while you’re there and whether you’re an adventure addict or new to kitesurfing you’ll get to take lessons at this great spot. Beginner courses in a group, lasting for 3h, and cost €95 EUR. If you want private classes the price jumps to €120 EUR/person.
Climb Pico do Fogo in Cape Verde
Fogo is an interesting island of Cape Verde. Sitting at 2829m above sea level, the Pico do Fogo is the third-highest peak in the Atlantic Ocean. You’ll need a guide to get you to the starting point, which can cost around €40-50 EUR. It’s considered to be an intermediate-level hike because of how vertical and steep the climb can be. Towards the end, as you approach the crater Chã das Caldeiras, it’s recommended that if you suffer from vertigo/heights/lack of physical strength it is best to not continue further as it can be quite strenuous.
Known for its active volcano and hiking activities, Fogo is also known for its great white wine! Be sure to try it out.
Drive a quad bike and explore the desert of Cape Verde
You can find quad bike tours on almost all the touristy islands, it’s a common activity. Remember to bring a copy of your driver’s license! As Boa Vista is mainly desert, the quad tours take you through an unforgettable unmarked trail through the bright sand, which is really fun and beautiful! We did the tour in Boa Vista and recommend doing it in Viana desert or Santa Monica. We booked with Tour quad and they have different kinds of pricing: €90 EUR for a 2-person bike or €75 EUR 1-person bike.
Visit the salt mines in Cape Verde
The Pedra Lume salt crater on Sal island is the most well-known of the islands. About 900 m in radius, the Pedra de Lume crater is the result of an extinct volcano. The landscape is filled with salt evaporation ponds called Salinas de Pedra de Lume that were built over a natural salt lake that formed through the infiltration of water from the sea. The extraction of salt was an important economic component of the island but hasn’t been active since the 1990s.
Visit an abandoned village in Boa Vista
The fishing village of Curral Velho was abandoned in about the 19th century. As a result of drought and pirate attacks, most of the people from this village left. Today, you can visit and walk around the ruins of earthen brick homes while also seeing Boa Vista’s salt lake (2 in 1!).
Visit a Shipwreck in Boa Vista
Located on Praia de Atalanta on the north coast of the island of Boa Vista, this beach is home to the shipwreck of MS Cabo Santa Maria. The rusting cargo sits by the shore of the beach, where the waves are quite strong. For safety reasons, it’s prohibited to swim here. In 1968 the Spanish ship, from which the area gets its name (Santa Maria), was stranded off the coast of a nature reserve Costa Boa Esperanca. No crew was harmed, the ship was carrying cargo and gifts from the Spanish dictator Francisco Franco.
Where to stay in Cape Verde
When looking for accommodations we highly recommend not staying at a resort. They’re isolated, away from the reality of Cape Verde, and will deprive you of seeing what island life is really like. Overall, Cape Verde is safe (more on the section below) so selecting accommodations in one of the villages with good reviews by the beach is the way to go.
| Type of Accommodation | Average price |
| A basic guesthouse room | Approx. 3000 CVE (€26 EUR) |
| Dormitory/hostel | Approx. 1100 to 2500 CVE (€10-23 EUR) |
| Fancier guesthouse (i.e. Airbnb-style) | Can reach 6000+ CVE (€53+ EUR) |
Here below are some examples to illustrate the types of accommodations in the table.
Santiago – Dormitory
Tarrafal’s Meeting point – What’s nice about this spot are the prices and that it’s a 4-minute walk to the beach! A room starts at €9 EUR/night for rooms with 6 beds, and about €23 EUR/night for a room with only 2 beds. They also have an airport taxi service as well as a laundry service.
| Location | Rua dos Correios, Entre CV Telecom e Farmácia Tarrafal Santiago Tarrafal Santiago, Cape Verde |
| tarrafalsmeetingpoint@gmail.com | |
| Phone | +238-931 6763 |
San Vicente – Basic room
Simabo – This accommodation is particular because it is also an animal shelter. It offers a total of 9 rooms that are simple but that still offer a relaxing stay. With 3 large shared bathrooms, a fully equipped communal kitchen and a living room, you’ll have access to all the essentials. They also offer vegan breakfasts and meals that you can choose to order or not. There is a tourist tax of €2 EUR/night, and rooms range from €15 EUR/night for a single private room and shared bathroom or a single private room and private bathroom at €20 EUR/night. Double rooms with a shared bathroom are €30 EUR/night and ones with a private bathroom are €60 EUR/night. For the solo traveller, there is a shared room option for the great price of €11 EUR/night.
| Location | Avenida Vicente Rendall Leite 13 – Mindelo, Sao Vicente, Cape Verde |
| Phone | +238-2312465 / +238-9937347 |
Boa Vista – Fancier guesthouse
Il Migrante – Picturesque, roomy, breakfast included, friendly staff. What really made this accommodation stand out was its location in the village by the beach Praia Diante, and the fact that there are only 3 rooms making it feel like you’re living in a shared home with a garden. P.S. The owners of this place are Italian and Cabo Verdean and own a nearby restaurant across the street (Sodade) that is delicious, a must-try for some modern takes on local cuisine.
We travelled during the low season (the low season being May to September, the high season being December to March), and our double room cost €80 EUR/night plus a tourist tax of €2 EUR/night. A single room costs €60 EUR/night. What’s great about this accommodation is that included in the price is an airport shuttle service.
| Location | Av Amilcar Cabral, Sal Rei, Boa Vista C.P. 80, Cape Verde |
| info@migrante-guesthouse.com | |
| Phone | +238-2511143 |
Is Cape Verde expensive to visit?
The short answer is yes. Things can add up quickly, starting with the price of your plane ticket. We travelled from Italy, had a connection in Portugal (Lisbon), and then a direct to Boa Vista and it cost around €450 EUR which was considered a deal, tickets from Italy usually cost closer to €800 EUR. Keep in mind that the high season to travel to Cape Verde is December to March so expect to pay a higher premium for tickets.
LOCAL CURRENCY: In Cape Verde the local currency is the Escudo (CVD), and €1 EUR is roughly 110 CVE.
In total, I think I ended up spending about €40 EUR/per day on my trip, accommodation excluded.
While plane ticket costs can differ depending on the length of stay, departure city, and the season in which you travel, one cost that will be standard is the cost of your visa, which needs to be completed online prior to arrival and will cost €31 EUR (more info in the Best tips section).
A coffee is an easy 110 CVE, and an “inexpensive” meal at a restaurant is about 1600 CVE or €15 EUR, a more “fancy” meal can cost closer to 2500 CVE €23 EUR. One thing to know is that some restaurants will have €1 EUR = 110 CVE written on their menu. Many of the more touristy restaurants will charge more for a meal and accept payments in Euros, so expect to pay more for a meal at this kind of place. If you’re renting an apartment, you can save some money by buying groceries and cooking, you can expect to pay around €12 EUR/day on groceries to have your three meals and water.
| Lunch in a regular-priced restaurant | About 600-800 CVE (€5-7) EUR |
| Lunch in a more touristy area/restaurant | 1000 – 1500 CVE (€9-15) EUR |
Excursions can cost and this is where the majority of your budget will most likely go since most beaches are free and you can make more cost-friendly choices for your accommodation and food. On average an excursion for two people can cost anywhere from €40-80 EUR. Our recommendation is to ask the excursion organizer if there is a group you can join to split the cost. When “shopping” around the excursions, you can either find some online in Facebook groups or through a simple Google search or by asking your accommodation which usually has a booklet with lists and prices.
Another item to add to your list of expenses is visiting the other islands. Prices range but you can expect to pay between €40 – 100 EUR for a single trip.
Is Cape Verde safe?
In general, yes it is safe to travel to Cape Verde. In our team, two young women travelled to Boa Vista alone and had an overall great experience. As a solo woman travelling you can expect catcalls and men approaching you to ask if you’re looking for a taxi ride, so use your common sense when interacting with or not interacting with people in this case. Overall people are friendly and we’d say the rule of thumb is to take any normal safety precaution you would take anywhere else.
Crime rates tend to be low, but you might hear that you should be careful about the “cities” at night. I put cities in quotations because these areas don’t seem to refer to the main village area but rather shanty towns or outskirts that are known for increased crime. These areas though aren’t areas of any tourism interest, you can tell from afar that it does not seem to be a safe neighborhood.
Your belongings…now no matter the country you visit you should keep your passport and any valuables or other documents in a safe place. We were advised to be careful at the beach, and to not leave our belongings unattended as it’s a common place for tourists to go and leave their bags, and then next thing you know you may not find your things anymore. Take a bit of cash with you, and don’t leave your items unattended.
Cape Verde also felt generally safe because several locals that we met spoke more than one language. While Kabuverdianu is more widely spoken, along with Portuguese, many people know French or English which helped a lot, and several also spoke Italian. Fun fact, in Boa Vista there was quite an Italian community of ex-pats!
What should I eat in Cape Verde?
Get ready to have some really delicious fresh fish and seafood like tuna, lobster and wahoo, or grilled meat like sheep, fresh fruits like papaya, and the local cocktail known as ponche (or punch in English). You’ll also commonly find squash, potatoes, beans, and corn on the menu. A very typical meal is the cachupa rica, which is a type of soup of legumes and corn, that also includes seasonal vegetables, cassava, sometimes green bananas, meat and fish.
We mainly stayed in Boa Vista and recommend checking out these places for a bite:
Sodade Casa da Cultura – You can stop by here for breakfast, lunch, dinner or just a drink. It’s a very cute-style village home that was turned into a restaurant. You’ll want to come here for the cozy and quaint atmosphere as live music at night in the backyard. It is recommended to reserve ahead of time by either visiting in person beforehand or giving them a call. You can get a glass of ponche for 150 CVE (€1.50 EUR), and a meal at dinner with a glass of wine will cost about 2200 CVE (€20 EUR) They also sell homemade papaya jam and baked goods if you’re looking for a local snack. There is also a museum on the second floor! If you choose to visit, it lasts about 30 min and includes an audio guide and costs 400 CVE (€4 EUR).
Tortuga Beach – We recommend hitting this place for a tasty fish lunch! The portions are generous and every fish dish includes roasted potatoes and greens. The plus side of eating here is that if you have lunch they usually let you use the beach umbrella for free (usually costs €5 EUR). Lunch here will cost between 1500-2000 CVE (€15-20 EUR).
Ca’ Baby – This cute restaurant is owned by Barbara, a lively Italian who moved to Boa Vista and started serving up some local dishes. While they also serve Italian food (and espresso), we recommend ordering the typical dishes instead to make the most of your trip. This restaurant is a great option for those looking for a slightly more “fancy” meal in still a casual atmosphere. It’s one of the few restaurants that serve lobster.
Casa do Pescador – This is a great option for an inexpensive but delicious lunch. It’s also right by the beach so the view is great. This little restaurant serves up grilled fish, beef and chicken for about 1000 CVE (€10 EUR). When ordering you can either order just the protein or also get the combo with potatoes/veggies and a drink.
What to bring
- Bring cash (local currency)
- After sun, to stay hydrated in the dry heat
- A hat is a must, the sun is strong
- Plug converter – Type C and Type F plugs (the same plug type used throughout Europe)
- Reusable water bottle
- No rain jacket, it’s quite rare that it rains
- Walking sandals or running shoes the sand gets hot
- Snacks for during your day trip since it’s not always certain if any bars or restaurants will be nearby
How long should I stay in Cape Verde?
The islands are known for the “No stress” motto, which you’ll even see written across the walls of the villages or hear locals say to tourists. It’s a laid-back vibe and as such you don’t want to rush your stay.
If you can stay three weeks, that would be ideal to see as many islands as you can and plan as many activities and excursions. If you have less time then we recommend two weeks if you’re thinking of visiting two islands, such as Sal, Boa Vista or Santiago, and one week if you plan to visit one island and visit it well from corner to corner.
Best tips for Cape Verde
Visit Cabe Verde App – This app helps to see what activities you can do, and what’s nearby and is a neat little pocket guide to the islands.
Be up-to-date on health recommendations – Depending on which countries you’ve travelled to prior to entering Cape Verde and your vaccination history, certain vaccines are recommended such as Hep A and B, Tetanus, etc. For example, if you’ve travelled to countries where the transmission of Yellow Fever is a risk you are recommended to have this vaccine. It is your choice, such as also purchasing travel insurance, you need to do what you feel most comfortable with and what risks you are willing to take. It’s just good to be in the know before going.
Drink bottled water – Do not drink tap water and avoid raw foods. To avoid any risk of an upset stomach, stick to cooked foods.
Your VISA – Up to 5 days before your arrival in Cape Verde you need to complete the EASE form to obtain your e-visa, and will cost €31 EUR and it’s valid for up to 12 months.
Bring cash – You can only get the local currency on the island and you aren’t permitted to leave the country with it so we suggest that when you arrive you head to the bank (ask your accommodation for directions or a driver to get you there) and withdraw the cash you’ll need. If you’re going to a place that’s not a major city it’s possible there won’t be a bank. Not all businesses accept card payments. Also, note that you’re officially not allowed to take Escudo cash out of the country. Some restaurants will charge you an additional €2 EUR if you pay by credit card, so opt for paying in cash.
Plan ahead – When booking excursions check to see what other things could be interesting to see nearby so that you can hire 1 driver and save money by seeing all that there is to offer in that corner of the island.
Ask your accommodation – In Cape Verde your accommodation can help you with all things related to booking tours, seeing if other guests also want to share a driver, where to go to eat, etc. As with any new destination, it’s good to also ask your accommodation if there are any areas in the village/city to be careful of or avoid.